10 Best Things to Do in Jaffna, Sri Lanka

You’ll often hear people saying that Jaffna is completely different. The northern capital of Sri Lanka sits on a peninsula at the far northern tip of the island nation and is more culturally, historically, and religiously tied to South India than the rest of Sri Lanka. For curious travellers like myself, its appeal lies in it being far less visited than other parts of the country and it offers a very different cultural experience in many ways.

As the Tamil capital, Jaffna has been the hub of Tamil and Hindu culture in Sri Lanka for centuries, drawing some stark differences to the Sinhalese and Buddhist south. Jaffna was once the capital of a Tamil kingdom before it fell to the Portuguese in 1619. Remnants of the colonial era still remain, particularly the star shaped Jaffna Fort, which still occupies a prominent centrepiece in the city.

In more recent years, the bloody civil war in Sri Lanka that ended in 2009 had devastating consequences in Jaffna. While you might not feel it as a brief visitor, the city is far quieter than it once was and it’s still largely rebuilding and healing wounds from the war’s outcome.

Still, for those curious enough to explore off the beaten track in Sri Lanka, I highly recommend a visit to Jaffna. It might seem quite a long trip north, but you’ll be surprised to find warm and welcoming people, some of the best food in the country and stunning, untouched beaches. After spending five days in the city, I’m going to round up the best things to do in Jaffna, plus share all my tips for exploring the area.

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Is Jaffna Safe to Visit?

Jaffna is definitely safe to visit. While stories from the civil war and far fewer tourists heading up to the northern parts of Sri Lanka may put some off, Jaffna is perfectly safe for visitors. In fact, I found the local people to be incredibly friendly and welcoming, more so than in Colombo.

For those who are keen to see a different side of Sri Lanka and explore areas that are less visited, Jaffna is the ideal destination. With plenty of things to do in the city, as well as, worthy day trips, you can easily spend a few days in Jaffna and the surrounds.

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How to Get to Jaffna

Jaffna is the northernmost city in Sri Lanka. It’s located about 400km north of Colombo. You can reach Jaffna either by bus or train.

From Trincomalee to Jaffna

There are fairly regular buses from Trincomalee to Jaffna. The journey takes around 5 hours and costs about 900LKR (US$3).

Bus schedule for Jaffna from Trincomalee (2023): 04:30am, 06:20am, 07:45am, 09:30am, 12:45pm, 14:30pm, 15:20pm, 15:45pm and 18:00pm.

Another option is to take a bus to Vavuniya, a major transport hub. From there, you’ll be able to get regular buses to Jaffna.

Read next: Trincomalee Travel Guide: An Underrated Beach Destination

From Colombo to Jaffna

You can travel either by bus or train from Colombo to Jaffna. It’s a long journey, if you plan on undertaking it all in a day. If so, I’d recommend the train as it gives you a bit more freedom to move around and there’s also a toilet on board.

The Colombo Fort to Jaffna train departs five times per day and takes around 8 hours. This train line passes through Anuradhapura, so you could also break the journey up with a night or two there.

Otherwise, there are overnight buses (one of the only overnight bus journeys in Sri Lanka) that run from Colombo to Jaffna. These are private, A/C buses which are quite comfortable, although the journey still takes about 7 hours.

Or, you could brave the local buses which have several departures per day (almost hourly in the morning) and drive via Anuradhapura. This bus #87 takes about 9 hours and is not recommended unless you’re very short on time (and money).

Read next: How to Spend 24 Hours in Colombo

How Long to Spend in Jaffna

Considering it’s a long trip to Jaffna, I’d recommend relaxing and taking your time to see the city. While it’s not bursting with incredible things to do, I’d still allow three days in Jaffna to do it justice.

If you want to head over to Delft Island for the night, then I’d recommend four days in total. There’s enough to keep you busy, without feeling overwhelmed, plus the delicious food is enough to make you stay a bit longer.

Read next: Essential 10 Day North Sri Lanka Itinerary

Where to Stay in Jaffna

Jaffna doesn’t quite have the same variety of accommodation like other parts of Sri Lanka. However, there are some fantastic homestays and guesthouses where you can get to know some locals. Here’s where I recommend:

Tony’s Garden House Backpackers Inn | I loved my stay at Tony’s! Tony and his family make you feel very welcome and are very knowledgable about Jaffna, with plenty of information and recommendations for budget travellers. They offer basic private rooms with shared bathrooms and communal living spaces. The delicious and cheap breakfast is also incredible! Check prices here.

Thambu Illam | A more mid-range option, this upscale boutique hotel has nicely decorated double rooms with ensuites. It also boasts a lovely garden and outdoor pool for cooling off in the hot sun. It’s about a 30 minute walk to the fort. Check prices here.

Jetwing Jaffna | A well-known hotel chain in Sri Lanka, Jetwing Jaffna is one of the nicest places to stay with a stunning rooftop bar and views over the coast. The deluxe rooms are beautifully decorated in local Tamil art and design. It’s conveniently located just 600 metres from Jaffna Public Library. Check prices here.

When to Visit Jaffna

Jaffna is one of the hottest and driest parts of Sri Lanka. It doesn’t tend to follow the typical monsoonal pattern of the rest of the country, making it quite difficult to pick the right time. However, Jaffna does tend to be impacted by the northeast (“Maha”) monsoon, which hits the east coast from October to March. The wettest and stormy months are generally October-November in Jaffna. So, the best time to visit is generally from February to September, when Jaffna is pretty dry and hot.

You might want to also time your visit for the Hindu Nallur Festival which takes place over 25 days at the Nallur Kandaswamy Temple in Jaffna, usually in July-August. I was lucky enough to witness these celebrations when I visited in August and it was definitely one of the most fascinating religious festivals I’ve seen.

Best Things to Do in Jaffna

I was pleasantly surprised with the incredible things to do in Jaffna. If you love a bit of history and a bit of culture combined with delicious food, then you’ll fall for Jaffna pretty quickly.

I explored on foot mostly, which takes a while and gets very hot and sweaty pretty quick. But, I also jumped into a tuk tuk every now and then, and I found the driver’s to be incredibly nice, so you don’t have to sweat it out if you don’t want. Make sure to download PickMe for the best way to hail a tuk tuk at a set price.

Explore Jaffna Fort

The most iconic attraction in Jaffna is the Jaffna Fort. The star shaped fort complex sits just outside of the city centre on the coast. It was originally built by the Portuguese in the early 1600s before being taken over by the Dutch and expanded. It was then controlled by the British and then used during Sri Lanka’s Civil War. So, it’s seen a lot of conflict you could say.

While it’s not as beautiful as Galle’s fort or impressive as other ruins in Sri Lanka, it still has its charm, which is that it’s mostly devoid of tourists. Once you’re inside, you’re free to basically roam anywhere, climb up the ramparts and wander along the fort walls.

There’s plenty of interesting corners to take photos and admire the view of the city skyline and ocean. I recommend heading up in the late afternoon for the golden glow of the setting sun.

There isn’t much information available about the history, but they have put together a little room near the entrance as a sort-of museum filled with basic history and old photos. The complex is still very much under renovation hopefully for future generations.

Entry ticket: $4 USD

Eat Lunch at Malayan Café

Easily the most famous restaurant in Jaffna, Malayan Cafe is a famous vegetarian cafe that is overflowing with locals catching a quick bite all day long. The large restaurant is within the main city centre of Jaffna, and it’s quite easy to find with people always mingling outside.

When you walk in, you’ll be shown where to sit by a waiter. If you’re in time for lunch, there’s really only one thing on the menu: rice and curry. Your waiter will place a banana leaf on your table and start filling it with rice and different curries. There’s no cutlery – do as the locals do and eat with your right hand.

Once you’re done, you have to take your banana leaf to the side room where you throw it down a chute and wash your hands at the taps, pay your bill and walk out. It’s quite an efficient process, but the highlight is the incredibly delicious and cheap food. It’s one of my most memorable meals in Sri Lanka!

If you visit outside of lunch hours, you can still choose from popular South Indian and Sri Lankan snacks, including string hoppers, dosas, idlis, and vadas.

Cost: 350 LKR (for unlimited rice and curry)

Visit Nallur Kandiswamy Temple

The Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil is a Hindu temple and one of the most important religious sites in Jaffna. It’s an absolutely stunning temple and one of the highlights of my time in the city. Dedicated to Hindu god Lord Murugan, the temple is the grounds of the near month-long annual festival, Nallur Festival, which I was very privileged to witness. The celebrations occur every day for 25 days in the evening.

Even without the festival, I recommend visiting the colourful temple and taking in the atmosphere where pilgrims come from all over the world to pray and chant in the shrines. This means you should dress appropriately, everyone must remove their shoes outside, and women must have covered shoulders and legs , and men have to remove their shirts.

Entry ticket: Free

Indulge in Rio’s Ice Cream

Within walking distance of Nallur Kandiswamy Temple, Rio’s is one of the most famous places to eat in Jaffna. Weirdly enough, this ice cream shop has an iconic reputation for its fanciful and colourful sundaes and ice creams.

If you’re looking for a sugar hit, then this is it. You’ll be surrounded by crowds of local people almost every day of the week.

Admire Jaffna Public Library and Jaffna Clock Tower

Very close to Jaffna Fort, the Jaffna Public Library is one of the most impressive remnants of the colonial architecture in the city. The library was once one of the largest in Asia with nearly 100,000 books. Sadly, it was burnt during the civil war and has since been restored, although not to the same glory that it once held.

Just a short walk away from there is the Jaffna Clock Tower. Built in 1875 to commemorate the visit of Prince of Wales to Ceylon, Albert Edward, the clock tower is another colonial landmark. It’s similar to other’s you’ve likely seen in Kandy and Colombo.

Spend Time at the Local Market of Thirunelveli

Visiting the farmer’s market of Thirunelveli is a truly local experience. The market is bustling from 5am until the early afternoon with people from all over the city and afar who come to sell their goods. Many are generational farmers and artisans, so it’s a nice way to introduce yourself to the Tamil culture.

Tourists are not all that common at the market though, so be polite and ask people before taking their photo. While you might get some curious vendors, most are very warm and welcoming and will likely try to strike up a conversation.

Walk to the Old Ruins of Mantri Manai

Scattered just northeast of the Nallur Temple are remains of Jaffna’s ancient royal palace. Sadly much of the ruins have been destroyed over years of violence, but what remains has been protected with the hope that it will one day be restored for tourists. For now, you can just stop on the side of the road and admire some random ruins without much signage or information.

The best preserved part is Mantri Manai or Manthiri Manai, otherwise known as King Sangiliyan’s Minister’s House. There is some debate as to when it was built and by whom, yet the impressive mansion is still a pretty cool little spot to check out if you have time.

Entry ticket: Free

Visit Nainativu Island

Off the coast from Jaffna is an archipelago of islands. There are several causeways connecting the city of Jaffna to Kurikadduwan, where you’ll find a jetty connected to other islands by boat or ferry. If you have extra time up your sleeve, I recommend taking a day trip to one or two of the islands.

Nainativu Island is an easy day trip as it’s only about a 15 minute ferry ride away from Kurikadduwan Jetty. This small inhabited island is famous for two pilgrimage sites from two different religions: Nagapushani Amman Kovil is Hindu and Nagadeepa Purana Viharaya is Buddhist.

Ferries leave constantly back and forth all day between Kurikadduwan and Nainativu, which has two jetties, one at the Buddhist temple and one at the Hindu temple. I took the ferry to the Buddhist temple, then walked up to the Hindu temple and jumped on the ferry back to Kurikadduwan.

If you have more time, you can also hire a tuk tuk to take you around the island to see other sights, although there’s not a whole lot going on. It’s still very much an off the beaten track day trip. Just be aware that the “ferry” is a wooden boat that is packed full of people. There are usually life jackets that are handed out to passengers (but I chose to sit on the roof on the way back and it felt much safer!).

How to get to the ferry: Take bus 776 from behind the main bus stand in Jaffna to the ferry terminal, Kurikadduwan Jetty. It will take about an hour and cost 200LKR.

Catching the ferry to Nainativu Island: The ferry ride takes about 15 minutes and costs 80LKR one way. Same on the way back.

Entry ticket to temples: Free

Spend a Night on Delft Island

Delft Island (or Neduntivu Island) is one of Sri Lanka’s most remote islands and is definitely an adventure that will get you off the beaten track. The island has a long history dating back to the ancient Chola Dynasty, as well as, being impacted by the colonial period with Portuguese, Dutch, and British remnants (where did the colonial powers not reach).

The island is rarely visited by tourists with a handful of visitors arriving, most of whom just visit for the day. The Sri Lanka Navy operates a ferry system that is perfect for a day trip, leaving at 8am from Kurikadduwan and returning from Delft at 3pm. However, it’s possible to stay the night on the island too, and I highly recommend that you do!

There’s not really any hotels on the island, but Tommy has set up a “glamping” style basic accommodation on his family’s land, known as Delft Village Stay. It’s very rustic, but it also suits the island’s overall vibe. Delft is devoid of cars, and most people get around by tuk tuk or bicycle (mostly bicycle). There’s few roads, some crumbling buildings, tiny villages, and swaying palm trees. That’s basically it.

It’s not the “paradise” image of an island that you might expect, but in some ways it really is paradise. Beaches are empty, the water is clear, it’s completely quiet, and you really feel as though you’re castaway in the middle of the ocean.

Tommy will help you explore. He has bicycles for guests to get around, with detailed maps to follow, and his family will cook a delicious dinner and breakfast for you as well (there’s no restaurants on the island). It’s worth cycling around to visit some of the colonial ruins like the old Dutch Hospital, admire the big baobab tree planted from Africa by Arab traders, and see the wild horses (another colonial remnant).

For the night’s stay in a glamping tent, with dinner, breakfast, bicycle rental, a ride on his motorbike out to see the wild horses, and a drop off at the ferry terminal on the island, Tommy charged me 6000 LKR (US$20) in total.

How to get to the ferry: Take bus 776 from behind the main bus stand in Jaffna to the ferry terminal, Kurikadduwan Jetty. It will take about an hour and cost 200LKR.

Catching the ferry to Delft Island: The ferry ride takes about 1 hour and is free! There are a few ferry services each day.

From Kurikattuwan to Delft: 8am, 2.30pm, and 4pm

From Delft back to Kurikattuwan: 7am, 11.30am, and 3pm

Check with Tommy once you’ve booked, and he’ll be able to give you the latest ferry information and arrange a pick up form the terminal once you arrive.

Read more: How to Visit Delft Island Near Jaffna

Take a Day Trip to Kankesanthurai Beach and Keerimalai Pond

If the islands seem a little far off the beaten path or difficult to reach, then you can easily explore some closer beaches on a day trip from Jaffna instead. You can either rent a scooter yourself or hire a tuk tuk driver to take you north of Jaffna to the coast.

Kankesanthurai Beach (or KKS Beach) is only about half an hour from Jaffna, but feels a world away. The beautiful beach has clear blue water and white sand and is often considered one of the most beautiful in northern Sri Lanka. It’s one of the most popular beaches for locals to head on a hot day.

Not far away, you can also stop at Keerimalai Naguleswaram Kovil, a colourful Hindu temple for local devotees. Dedicated to Shiva, it’s estimated to about 1000 years old. Right next door, you can also visit the Keerimalai Pond, which is said to have healing powers. You’ll find local boys using the pond more as a swimming pool than a healing bath, but it can be fun to watch.

A full day trip out to these spots as well as some other photo stops around Jaffna will cost about 8500 LKR in a tuk tuk (US$28).

Where to Next? More Sri Lanka Travel Guides:

• Sigiriya: Ultimate Guide to Sigiriya: Sri Lanka’s Cultural Triangle
• Ella: 10 Best Things to Do in Ella: An Essential Guide
• Kandy: 10 Best Things to Do in Kandy: An Essential Guide
• Trincomalee: Trincomalee Travel Guide: Underrated Beach Destination in Sri Lanka
• Colombo: Best Things to Do in Colombo in 24 Hours
• Galle: 2 Days in Galle Fort: Best Things to Do in Galle
• Hiriketiya: Hiriketiya Beach: A Guide to Sri Lanka’s Little Coastal Paradise
• Weligama: Layback Surf Camp Review in Weligama
• Digital Nomad Travel: Digital Nomad in Sri Lanka: A Guide for Remote Workers
• Learning to Surf: A Guide for Beginner Surfers in Sri Lanka

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