north sri lanka itinerary

If you want to get away from the crowded southern coast or explore a different side of Sri Lanka, the northern half of the country offers an adventure. With far less visited attractions, cities still healing from the civil war, unspoiled beaches teeming with marine life, and some of the most delicious food on the island, this north Sri Lanka itinerary promises 10 days off the beaten track.

If the southern half of the country is covered in rain showers and thunderstorms during the monsoon, head up to the north and east coast of the island and you’ll find clear, blue skies and good underwater visibility. With a completely opposite climate to the south, northern Sri Lanka is where you want to go when planning a visit from May until October.

From exploring the streets of Jaffna to snorkelling off the coast of Trincomalee, this 10 day north Sri Lanka itinerary is ideal for those looking to visit the least explored parts of the country.

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Why Visit Northern Sri Lanka

Ancient cities, the birthplace of Buddhism in Sri Lanka, white sand beaches, remote coral islands, fascinating Tamil culture, delicious Indian-inspired cuisine, and old colonial forts, this is northern Sri Lanka. Far less visited than the southern half of the country, it may not have the bustling surf towns, lush tea plantations, Instagram-worthy tree swings, and digital nomad cafes. But the north of Sri Lanka certainly oozes with culture, history, and natural beauty that is worth exploring.

Since the end of the civil war in 2009, tourism has not fully returned to the Tamil regions of Sri Lanka. However, it’s incredibly safe to visit, and in fact, I found it gave a more rounded insight into the small island country in the Indian Ocean.

Quite different to the Buddhist south, you’ll taste different food, hear a different language, and notice different landscapes. If you want to get off the beaten track in Sri Lanka, then the north is where you should head. From snorkelling in Trincomalee to watching the sunset from Mihintale or standing on the fort walls in Jaffna, it’s worth spending some time in north Sri Lanka.

north Sri lanka itinerary pin

How to Get to Sri Lanka

Most people arrive in Sri Lanka by plane near the capital city of Colombo. The main entry point is Bandaranaike International Airport, about 32km north of Colombo. It’s not a very convenient entry point, as it can take at least an hour to travel from the airport into the city centre.

For this reason, some people choose to stay in Negombo, a beach suburb near the airport that has plenty of hotels. But, I’d recommend heading into Colombo to explore some of the city’s sights, if you have time. A taxi from the airport into Colombo Fort should cost around 4500 LKR (US$15), but be prepared to bargain hard.

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View from Fort Frederick
View from Fort Frederick

Best Time to Visit North Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka is basically hot all year round, with temperatures averaging between 25 – 32°C across most of the country. However, the humidity is often the real killer, as it hovers near 90% in most low-lying areas.

The country sees different periods of monsoon from one half to the other, so the climate in the south is almost completely opposite to the north. The main monsoon season in the south and southwest regions of Sri Lanka occurs from May until October. While from November until late March the monsoon moves to the north and northeast coasts.

This means the best time to visit the north and east regions of Sri Lanka is considered to be from May until October, when the weather is typically drier. While the north of Sri Lanka is generally much less busy than the south, if you’re visiting Sri Lanka anytime from April to October then you’ll find most people tend to head north to avoid the rainy weather in the south.

Quiet streets of Delft Island
Quiet streets of Delft Island

How to Get Around North Sri Lanka

Transport is somewhat more limited in the north compared to the south. However, you’ll still find plenty of options to get you around, from buses to trains.

Buses

The extensive bus network covers almost the entire country, so you’ll be able to get wherever you want by bus. I found the buses to be the best option for the north where the train network isn’t as frequent. Buses run to a schedule throughout the day for inexpensive prices. However, local buses are known for their chaotic driving and uncomfortable seating, so you’ll have to be prepared for a long, bumpy ride. For popular routes, you’ll also have an option for newer A/C buses which cost a little bit more but are usually more comfortable and faster.

Trains

The famous trains in Sri Lanka have become a quintessential experience in the country. The rail network is fairly extensive, although less frequent in the north, plus it can be slow, delayed, and a little chaotic. Trains generally run from Colombo, with separate lines up to Trincomalee and Jaffna. If you have time and patience, you could hop on a train in north Sri Lanka, but generally I stuck to the buses which leave more frequently throughout the day.

Jaffna bus station
Jaffna bus station

Tuks Tuks and Private Taxis

It seems there are almost more tuk tuks than people in Sri Lanka, with these three-wheeled mobiles zipping around everywhere. They are easily the best transport for quick trips from bus stations to hotels and even longer day trips. You can usually bargain a decent price, and sometimes the friendly driver will act as an unofficial guide.

If you’re short on time or prefer more comfort and speed in your travels, then hiring private taxis can be ideal. You can arrange a private transfer either through an app like Uber or PickMe (you can also order tuk tuks through these apps) or through a tour operator.

Boat and Ferries

In the north of Sri Lanka, you might even jump on a boat or ferry to get around. This is mostly reserved for the islands off the coast of Jaffna. You can visit the religious Nainativu Island on a day trip or the castaway Delft Island for the night, both accessible by ferry. I’m including a trip to Delft Island in this itinerary.

I’ll just warn you though that the “ferries” are not exactly what you might think of as ferries. They are usually a combination of old wooden boats or a rusty, old navy ferry depending on the destination, so you’ll have to hope for some calm seas and take some anti nausea tablets.

Colombo Fort Railway Station
Colombo Fort Railway Station

Detailed 10 Day North Sri Lanka Itinerary

This detailed look at a 10 day itinerary through northern Sri Lanka will take you to the highlights of the north, with a combination of beach, historical, and city destinations. Here’s how to spend 10 days around the north.

Day 1 – Colombo

I suggest heading into Colombo as soon as you land in Sri Lanka (don’t worry about exploring Negombo). Depending on how much time you have on your first day, there are plenty of things to keep you busy.

While you might be confronted by the chaos of the city, give it a chance and let yourself be introduced to the commercial hub of Sri Lanka.

Brave the colourful laneways of Pettah Market, the buzzing centre of activity in Colombo. Here, you’ll be introduced to the kaleidoscope of Sri Lanka’s cultural landscape, with market stalls, restaurants, and old colonial buildings.

Don’t miss the Jami Ul-Alfar Masjid (or the Red Mosque), the fantastical red and white striped mosque that can house thousands of worshippers within Pettah Market. There are free 30-minute tours of the mosque, which I highly recommend doing if you can.

Other important landmarks to check out within a short tuk tuk ride are Gangaramaya TempleViharamahadevi Park, and the Colombo National Museum. If you’re desperate for some peace, then the ocean-front urban park known as Galle Face Green is one of the city’s most beloved neighbourhoods, especially in the late afternoon.

STAY | Hostel Republic or Srilax

EAT | Head to Aluthkade Street Food Market east of Pettah for street food vendors selling a combination of Middle Eastern and South Asian flavours. Try fried rice, bamboo biryani or kottu, for local dishes.

Read more: How to Spend 24 Hours in Colombo

View of Sigiriya Rock from Pidurangala Rock
View of Sigiriya Rock from Pidurangala Rock

Day 2 – Sigiriya

You’ll be travelling for most of the day to get from Colombo to Sigiriya in the central plains. Home to the country’s most important historical and archaeological sites, Sigiriya is worth spending some time climbing the rocks and exploring the crumbling ruins. It’s one of the most famous places in the country.

I suggest heading to Pidurangala Rock for sunset. Arrange a tuk tuk to drive you the 5km from town to the entrance, wait for you to watch the sunset at the top, and then take you back. It should cost about 1500 LKR (US$5) all up (elephants roam the bush at night, so it’s not safe to walk back to town on your own).

The hike up to Pidurangala is steep over some rough, rocky terrain, but most fit people can make it to the top in 30-40 minutes. You’ll be rewarded with expansive panoramic views of the area, including the iconic view of Sigiriya Rock.

HOW TO GET THERE | Take a bus from Colombo Central Bus Stand to Dambulla (it may be #49 Trincomalee bus, #15 bus to Anuradhapura, or #48 bus to Kaduruwela). The journey may take around 5 hours. Then, take another bus from Dambulla to Sigiriya which run every hour and take about 30 minutes.

STAY | Freedom Home Stay or La Dolce Vita

EAT | Rice and curry at Kenoli Restaurant, a small, family-run restaurant with some of the best home cooked food you’ll find in town.

Sigiriya Rock entrance
Sigiriya Rock entrance

Day 3 – Sigiriya 

Get up and head to Sigiriya Rock for sunrise to beat the heat and avoid the crowds. You’ll wander through the old palace gardens and climb the steep stairs to the top of Sigiriya Rock Fortress.

The ruins of King Kasyapa’s fortified palace at the top of the rock are reminiscent of Peru’s Machu Picchu. While they have been reduced over time to mere foundations, the old stone terraces offer incredible panoramic views. Allow about 3 hours for a visit to Sigiriya Rock, depending on how much time you spend at the top. 

Rock Cave Temple
Rock Cave Temple

For the remainder of the day, take a half day trip back to Dambulla, just 30 minutes from Sigiriya. You can easily do it independently using the local bus from Sigiriya to Dambulla or hire a tuk tuk.

Dambulla is home to the best preserved cave temple complex in Sri Lanka. You only need around 1-2 hours to explore the caves, including the time it takes to climb up the many stairs from the ticket entrance.

There are separate caves with over 150 Buddhist statues and paintings, some dating back over 2,000 years. Colourful Buddhist murals cover over most of the cave walls, while the views overlooking the surrounding valley all the way to Sigiriya are also really beautiful.

Read more: Ultimate Guide to Sigiriya and Sri Lanka’s Cultural Triangle

View of Trincomalee from the fort
View of Trincomalee from the fort

Day 4 – Trincomalee

You should arrive in Trincomalee or Trinco by lunchtime from Sigiriya. The main tourist hub is actually Uppuveli Beach, 5km north of Trincomalee town centre. This is where you’ll find a cluster of restaurants, guesthouses, resorts, and diving centres just back from the sand.

Trinco is one of Sri Lanka’s most underrated destinations. With a laidback attitude, long stretches of white sand and clear water, interesting Hindu Tamil culture, and delicious fresh seafood, Trincomalee has the perfect combination for a beach holiday.

Once you arrive at your accommodation, you can either relax on the beach for the rest of the day or head back into town to explore some of the sights. The town doesn’t boast a lot, but you can check out Fort Frederick and Koneswaram Temple, both built with a commanding view over the bay just out of town.

Sunset drinks on Uppuveli Beach
Sunset drinks on Uppuveli Beach

HOW TO GET THERE | Take a local bus from Sigiriya to Inamaluwa Junction for 80LKR which takes about 20-30 minutes. Stand on the highway bus stop and wave down any bus #49 passing through on the way to Trincomalee (buses originate in Colombo), journey will take about 3 hours and cost 500LKR (AU$2.50).

STAY | The White House or Golden Beach Cottages

EAT | Head to Rice’n’Curry, not far from the beach. This popular place has a buffet rice and curry dinner and is one of the best places to eat in town. Or for Western style food, try Cafe on the 18th next to Fernando’s Bar for their quality breakfast and coffee.

Swimming with a turtle
Swimming with a turtle

Day 5 – Trincomalee

The next morning, you’ll want to head off on a snorkelling trip to Pigeon Island. Known as one of the best places in Sri Lanka for diving and snorkelling, Pigeon Island National Park is a beautiful coral island just a kilometre off the coast of Uppuveli Beach.

You can take a boat trip directly from the beach and spend a couple of hours snorkelling or diving around the reefs of Pigeon Island. You’ll be able to spot sea turtles, reef sharks, tropical fish, and colourful coral (although much of the coral is still regenerating from the 2004 tsunami).

I took a morning snorkelling trip to Pigeon Island with Rangan from The White House, and it was one of my highlights from Sri Lanka. In total, I paid 20,000 LKR (US$68), which included the national park fee, boat trip to and from the island from Uppuveli, snorkelling gear, snacks, and Rangan as a guide. His WhatsApp no is +94 715213701 or you can find him at The White House in Uppuveli Beach.

For the rest of the day, you can just sit back and enjoy the beach. Head to Fernando’s Bar on Uppuveli Beach for sunset drinks, easily the place to be in the evenings.

Read more: Complete Travel Guide to Trincomalee

Jaffna city centre
Jaffna city centre

Day 6 – Jaffna 

If you leave Trincomalee on one of the morning buses, you’ll arrive by the early afternoon in Jaffna. As the capital of the Tamil north, it’s a vibrant, culturally rich city that is still very much feeling the affects of the Sri Lanka civil war. It’s safe to wander around though, and you’ll likely meet some very friendly locals along the way.

Head to Jaffna Fort, the city’s main tourist attraction. Explore the ramparts and the fort walls, which offer views over the ocean and the cityscape. The star shaped fort complex was originally built by the Portuguese in the early 1600s, before being taken over by the Dutch and then, British, before being used during Sri Lanka’s Civil War. 

Jaffna Fort Entrance
Jaffna Fort Entrance

Then, walk past the Jaffna Public Library and Jaffna Clock Tower, some of the most impressive remnants of colonial architecture in Jaffna. Wander through the bustling city centre and stop at the Malayan Cafe for lunch. Then, continue walking out to Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil, a Hindu temple and one of the most important religious sites in Jaffna. 

Indulge in some ice cream at the famous Rio’s Ice Cream Parlour near the temple, before walking back to your accommodation past the old ruins of Mantri Manai.

HOW TO GET THERE | There are fairly regular buses from Trincomalee to Jaffna throughout the day. The journey takes around 5 hours and costs about 900LKR (US$3).The bus schedule is as follows: 06:20am, 07:45am, 09:30am, 12:45pm, 14:30pm, 15:20pm, 15:45pm and 18:00pm. There’s no direct train from Trincomalee to Jaffna.

STAY | Tony’s Garden House Inn or Jetwing Jaffna

EAT | Don’t leave without eating rice and curry at the Malayan Cafe in central Jaffna. Served unlimited curries and rice on a traditional banana leaf and eaten with your hands, it’s a must-have experience in Jaffna and all for less than US$2.

Read more: 10 Best Things to Do in Jaffna

Delft Island
Delft Island

Day 7 – Delft Island

Jaffna has several islands off the northern coast of Sri Lanka, some inhabited and some completely barren castaway places. The most remote inhabited island is Delft Island or otherwise known locally as Neduntivu Island, with a long history dating back to the Chola Dynasty.

You can visit the island on a long day trip, but I suggest staying the night on the island. It’s easily one of the most off the beaten path adventures in Sri Lanka and is completely unique. You can easily catch a ferry to the island from Kurikadduwan Jetty, just an hour from Jaffna.

The island is a little slice of paradise and a step back in time. It has several attractions, including old colonial ruins, like the Dutch Hospital or old fort, plus weird remnants of the past such as the African baobab tree planted by Arab traders, and wild horses imported by the Portuguese.

There’s not really any hotels on the island, but Tommy has set up basic “glamping” accommodation on his family’s land, known as Delft Village Stay. It’s very rustic, but it also suits the island’s overall vibe. Tommy will help you explore the island, with bicycles for rent along with a map sent to your phone. His family also cook home made meals, so it’s a truly local experience. Tommy charges around 6000 LKR (US$20) for a night, including food and bicycle rental.

HOW TO GET THERE | Take bus 776 from behind Jaffna bus stand to the ferry terminal, Kurikadduwan Jetty. It will take about an hour and cost 200LKR. Take one of the ferry services to Delft Island, leaving daily at 8am, 2.30pm, and 4pm. The ferry ride takes about 1 hour and is free! Tommy can arrange a pickup at the ferry dock on the island or get a tuk tuk.

Read my detailed guide: How to Visit Delft Island From Jaffna, Sri Lanka

Delft Island Ferry (the one you don't want)
Delft Island Ferry

Day 8 – Jaffna

Depending on what ferry you take back to Jaffna the following day, you may not arrive back in the city with enough time to continue your north Sri Lanka itinerary to Anuradhapura. Either way, the ferry ride can be exhausting, so I recommend spending another night in Jaffna to enjoy some rest.

Anuradhapura stupa
Anuradhapura stupa

Day 9 – Anuradhapura

The following day, catch a bus or train to Anuradhapura. This city in central Sri Lanka is a very spread out place, with lakes and temples scattered amidst the new and old city.

Due to the sites being spread out over a large area, you need a tuk tuk to get around the Anuradhapura Sacred City, a UNESCO World Heritage Listed attraction. Within the complex, you’ll find several temples and large stupas, including some of the most important religious and historical sites in the country. The city was once a Ceylonese capital that flourished for 1,300 years, until it was abandoned after an invasion in 993.

For the most famous parts of the complex, you’ll need to obtain a pricey ticket of US$25 per foreigner that grants entrance to the main sites. However, you can also explore some of the smaller yet still impressive stupas for free or a fraction of the cost. Most tuk tuk drivers know how to avoid the main ticketed spots, so your accommodation host will be able to help you get the right driver.

It will take a few hours to get around to some of the sights and then, in the afternoon, try to allow enough time to head out to Mihintale for sunset. This mountain peak outside of town is home to a temple at the site where the Buddhist monk Mahinda met King Devanampiyatissa and established Buddhism in Sri Lanka.

You’ll need to be prepared for lots of stairs to get you to the top and plenty of pilgrims crowding the rocky summit. However, it’s a really special way to admire the devotion of Sri Lankans and watch an incredible sunset.

For a tuk tuk driver to take me around to many of the stupas and temples in Anuradhapura, plus a sunset trip out to Mihintale, I paid 11,000 LKR (US$38) all up. I arranged this through my accommodation at Lake House Homestay.

HOW TO GET THERE | There are several buses per day from Jaffna to Anuradhapura leaving from the long distance bus terminal in Jaffna. The alternative is to take a more frequent bus to Vavuniya and then switch to a bus for Anuradhapura. You can also take a train from Jaffna to Anuradhapura which should take about 4 hours. There’s only three train departures per day though: 6am, 2pm, and 7:40pm.

STAY | Lake House Homestay or Golden Ray Villa

EAT | Getting in and out of Anuradhapura city can be quite difficult, with most accommodation spread around a large area. For this reason, I recommend eating at your homestay or hotel. The home cooked food I had at Lake House Homestay was absolutely delicious!

Mihintale sunset
Mihintale at sunset

Day 10 – Colombo

On your last day in northern Sri Lanka, take a bus or train back down to Colombo, or Negombo if you’re flying out. This journey takes about 6-7 hours with frequent services connecting the city to the capital. You can even opt for a slightly more expensive but faster A/C minibus which will stop less often and be more comfortable.

Have More Time? How to Adjust This Itinerary

If you have more time for northern Sri Lanka, then you can easily extend this itinerary to suit your trip. Here’s how I would adjust the above itinerary:

  • Spend an extra day in Trincomalee if you’re keen to relax on the beach or go snorkelling or diving again
  • Add an extra day in Jaffna and head out on another day trip to nearby beaches and temples
  • Spend an extra day in Sigiriya and head to Polonnaruwa ancient ruins on a day trip
  • From Colombo, head south to Galle for a couple of days on the coast at the end of your trip

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