20 Best Things to Do in Esperance, Western Australia

Esperance is one of those places that Australians dream about visiting. It has some of the most beautiful beaches in the world, so good that they don’t look real. An endless coastline of white sand and fluorescent blue water; wild, rugged, and remote, but inviting enough to travellers who are willing to drive a long way to see it.

Esperance is a remote place. A long distance from any major city, most people visit on a road trip from Perth or even across the Nullarbor from South Australia. The otherworldly beauty makes the drive worthwhile, and I can highly recommend Esperance for anyone who visits Western Australia. It’s easily one of the most beautiful places in Australia.

If you’re planning an epic coastal road trip in southwest WA, then this guide is going to detail the best things to do in Esperance. From the best beaches to short walks, you’ll need to read this guide before visiting Esperance.

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How to Get to Esperance

Perth to Esperance (via inland quickest route): 700 km or 8 hours via National Route 1

Perth to Esperance (via coastal scenic route): 1,200 km+ via Margaret River and Albany

Most people come to Esperance from Perth on a road trip. The quickest way is to travel inland. However, it’s still a long drive and takes about 8+ hours one way. The best way is to take the more scenic coastal route via Margaret River and Albany, which is much longer but allows you to take in the best sights of the southwest of Western Australia.

If you’re going to take the scenic Perth to Esperance road trip, I recommend allowing about 10 days to really make the most of it. However, I easily took longer too, so if you have the time, spend as much of it as you can.

For those driving across the Nullarbor from Adelaide, Esperance is often the first stop if you head south from Norseman. Esperance is about 200 km from Norseman and takes about 2.5 hours to drive.

Best Time to Visit Esperance

Esperance is on the southern coastline of Western Australia. This means that summer can be very hot. While this is perfect for visiting the beaches, it’s also very busy with tourists and the long drives can be quite uncomfortable in the heat. I recommend booking accommodation ahead in summer.

Winter is very quiet in Esperance. It can be cool, wet and windy (although it’s often windy at any time of year), so it’s not the best time to enjoy the beautiful water. However, there are much less people, and you can also enjoy the whale migration, from June onwards.

The best time to visit Esperance is either autumn or spring. This is the ideal time with moderate weather, plus whales can still be seen late into spring. You’ll also avoid the worst of the holiday crowds.

I was there in early December, which was a really nice time. The weather was warm (although starting to get too hot for long drives), and perfect for beach hopping. However, the water temperature was still very cool and it was windy (but this is common all year round here). The water is rarely “warm” in Esperance!

Where to Stay in Esperance

Accommodation in Esperance is a bit limited and can be expensive, especially in busy periods. I recommend booking ahead, if visiting in summer or school holidays.

If you’re travelling with a campervan or camping setup, then there are several caravan parks in town. Otherwise, B&Bs and motels are common.

Here’s where I recommend checking out: 

RAC Esperance Holiday Park | This beachfront caravan park near Tanker Jetty has something for everyone, from powered camping sites to cabins. 

Clearwater Motel Apartments | Right in the heart of town, this motel is one of the more affordable places to stay. The self-catering apartments are ideal for those wanting to have a kitchen.

Folktales Rest Tiny House | Just tucked behind Castletown Beach, this one-bedroom tiny house is a really unique option in Esperance. It’s a bit pricey, but it’s cosy and perfect for a romantic weekend away.

National Park Camping

Cape Le Grand National Park outside of Esperance has two campgrounds. However, you must book well in advance, as many people miss out. I couldn’t get a spot here at all in December. Bookings are open around six months in advance, so be sure to plan your stay.

Lucky Bay Campground is easily the most sought after, being just back from the famous beach. It has 56 unpowered sites with toilets and showers. It’s from $20 per person per night.

There’s also Le Grand Beach Campground. It offers 14 unpowered sites with toilets and showers. It’s from $20 per person per night.

A note on free camping/stealth camping: It’s heavily monitored in Esperance. It’s the only place in Australia I was ever issued an official warning at 4am. They’re especially strict in summer, so be careful where you choose to park for the night. There are no “official” free camping spots in the entire region.

Best Things to Do in Esperance

If you’re looking for the best things to do in Esperance, then here are my favourite beaches, walks and attractions in and around town.

Pink Lake (which is not actually pink anymore!)

The iconic Pink Lake near Esperance is sadly no longer pink, due to commercial salt harvesting and changes in water flow. It’s now a dull colour and not really worth a visit like it used to be.

Lake Warden is the more pink-hued lake close to Esperance. This is the best option if you want to see a pink lake near town without paying for a scenic flight. However, it’s not as bright as others in Western Australia. 

Lucky Bay Brewery

Located in Bandy Creek outside of town, Lucky Bay Brewery is a microbrewery using local barley and wheat to brew their craft beers. They also offer wood-fired pizza and a full a la carte menu in a cool rustic open-air shed, with special live music sessions too. 

Esperance Markets

If you’re in town on a weekend, make sure to check out the Esperance Growers Market held every fortnight on Saturday mornings near the Scout Hall. You can find a bunch of local growers and makers selling their products focusing on sustainable, local produce.

In summer, you’ll also find some pop up markets on the weekends and in the evenings. I was lucky enough to catch the Christmas market at the start of December.

Wylie Bay

Wylie Bay is an underrated attraction about a 15-minute drive out of Esperance. It’s a stunning stretch of coastline with a natural sandbar at the edge of Esperance Bay and huge boulders in the sea. 

Most people visit in a 4×4 so you can drive on the beach, and some even drive up the rocks. However, you have to be careful of tide times, if you attempt this. 

Otherwise, you can also park at the end of the road and walk a few minutes to the beach to explore the rocks on foot. From the top, you can enjoy panoramic views of the bay with its turquoise colour. 

Lake Hillier Flight

Considered one of the most unique things to see in Western Australia, Lake Hillier is a bright bubble gum pink lake located on Middle Island off the coast of Cape Arid. 

The only way to see it is by scenic flight departing from Esperance. The flight lasts at least 1.5 hours, some options offering a remote beach landing as well. It’s well and truly outside of my budget, but it’s definitely a unique experience if you want to splurge on something special. 

You obviously get to take in all the coastline around Esperance as well. It would be incredible to see the region from above.

Woody Island

Woody Island is one of the 100 islands in the Recherche Archipelago located just 15km off the coast of Esperance. The only way to visit the island is with Woody Island Eco Tours. 

The day trip starts with a 1.5-hour cruise where you have a chance to spot plenty of wildlife and birds. Then, you get to explore the island on foot with a guide, plus they offer snorkelling and swimming too.

For those wanting to stay longer, the company also operates glamping style tents on the island where you can stay the night in solitude. 

Great Ocean Trail 

The Great Ocean Trail is a long-sealed path that is suitable for walkers, cyclists and prams. It starts from Tanker Jetty Park, with the first 10 km or so following the beautiful Esplanade and coastline all the way out to Twilight Beach.

From there, the trail heads inland towards Pink Lake to form a loop all the way back to town. This is about 20km all together, so I’d recommend cycling it if you can. Otherwise, you can also just walk a section, particularly along the coast just west of town. But it is exposed to the sun and would be very warm in summer, so perhaps go early in the day.

Wharton Beach

You’ve got to drive more than an hour out of town to reach this beach, but trust me when I say that it’s worth it. Wharton Beach is probably the most beautiful beach I’ve ever seen.

Located about 94km east of Esperance, it’s a long drive on a good road for all vehicles. You can easily incorporate it into a trip out to Cape Le Grand National Park as well (if you have more than a day).

The beach is accessed down a dead-end road with a small carpark, although 4×4 vehicles can drive and park on the beach itself. It’s a stunning spot with the whitest sand and brightest of blue water you’ll ever see.

You can swim and surf here, but there have been fatal shark attacks in the past despite it being a shallow bay. So, swim at your own risk. Duke of Orleans Bay Caravan Park is just back from the beach, if you want to stay nearby, but otherwise, there’s not much else to do around there.

Great Ocean Drive

The Great Ocean Drive is a 40-kilometre loop drive in Esperance giving you access to some of the best beaches, headlands, and views in town. Along the way you can stop every few minutes and take in so many incredible spots. 

Here are the must visits:

• West Beach: Close to town this is one of the first stops and often overlooked. It’s still a beautiful beach though.
• Blue Haven Beach: A small and quiet beach with very calm water. You can access the beach via the Salmon Beach Access Road and turn left to a small carpark. From here, you can also climb up Blue Haven Rock for a nice view.
• Salmon Beach: This beach is beautiful and quieter than others. There’s a small carpark here which is perfect for parking up for a few hours.
• Twilight Beach: This is the most famous beach on the drive, and honestly it is stunning. There’s a huge carpark now with toilets and change rooms. The water is incredibly blue, and the bay has a couple of huge granite rocks which people like to climb and jump off. It can be BUSY in summer, so go early.
• Observatory Beach (Observatory Point): Observatory Point is the best place to be for sunset in Esperance. At the carpark for the beach, you’ll find some stairs leading up to a viewpoint, from where you can get panoramic views of the coast.
• Ten Mile Lagoon: There’s only a small carpark for this spot, but don’t be fooled as it is worth visiting. There is a naturally shallow part of the bay here which is perfect for swimming and snorkelling and great for kids. There is also a nudist beach here to one side.
• Eleven Mile Beach: This is the last spot on the coastal part of the drive, and you have to drive down a skinny, rough road to reach the carpark. But, the natural lagoon here is incredible and even better than Ten Mile! There is also beach access to 4×4 vehicles here.

Cape Le Grand National Park

Cape Le Grand is from another world. This national park is home to a rugged coastline, with large granite outcrops and sweeping white sand beaches. This is where you’ve likely seen many photos from Esperance. 

There is a sealed road through the national park giving you access to the best spots. You can certainly see much of the park in a single day. However, if you want to actually enjoy the beaches, then I’d suggest giving it a couple of days. 

Camping inside the national park is ideal giving you better access to the beaches after the crowds have gone. However, it’s difficult to secure a spot, especially if you’re visiting in the warmer months.

Don’t forget! Fees apply to visit this WA national park. Purchase a Parks Pass in advance.

Here are the best places to visit in Cape Le Grand National Park:

Lucky Bay

The iconic spot in the national park and often voted the most beautiful beach in Australia (although I personally think Hellfire Beach is better), Lucky Bay is a huge sweeping bay with white sand and blue water. The famous photo here is of kangaroos on the beach, which typically happens at dawn or dusk and not all the time (please don’t feed them).

This place is definitely the busiest in the national park and the carpark can be full. You can also drive onto the beach here, with the sand being quite firm. The bay is calm and it’s the perfect place to swim and paddleboard.

You can also camp just back from the beach here. However, it’s booked out months in advance in high season, so plan ahead.

Thistle Cove and Whistling Rock

Thistle Cove is a beautiful cove with a nice beach that is far less visited than some of the others. You can also find Whistling Rock here, a short walk from the carpark. Known for the soft “whistling” sound made when wind moves through the rock, it’s a striking formation.

Hellfire Bay

Hellfire Bay is one of the most beautiful bays in the national park. For me, this was the most beautiful beach in the whole park. The water is a milky blue colour, and the bay is flanked by massive granite outcrops which give it a completely unique view.

There are toilets and a shelter here if you want somewhere out of the sun to have lunch. Then, take the stairs down to the beach. You can also climb up onto the rocks here and get a nice view. 

It’s generally much quieter here than Lucky Bay, so it’s perfect to spend the day on the beach without the 4×4’s speeding past.

Coastal Walk Trail

The Coastal Trail is a 20km one way walking trail in Cape Le Grand National Park. It goes from cove to cove along the coast, taking in all the views and beaches. It begins from Cape Le Grand Beach and stretches to Lucky Bay. 

It gives you access to some lesser visited spots that aren’t accessible by car too like Little Hellfire Bay, so you can have beaches all to yourself.

The trail is extremely exposed to the sun though with very little shade. If you’re going to walk the trail or even part of it, I’d advise going earlier in the morning. It was very hot when I was there in December, so I chose not to tackle it. But in the cooler months, I’d definitely say it’s a great way to explore the park.

Frenchman Peak

Frenchmans Peak is the most recognisable landmark in the park. The granite hill juts about 260m out of the ground. All I knew about the peak before going is that you can hike to the top and enjoy the panoramic view. However, it was a delightful surprise to find an incredible cave near the summit too.

Thought to have been formed by wave action and underwater currents 40 million years ago when the sea covered the peaks, the cave is huge and was one of the most impressive things I saw in Western Australia.

Known as Mandooboornup by Aboriginal Traditional Owners, I highly recommend hiking the 2.6 km return trail to the top. Starting from the carpark, the trail goes straight up across the granite, so it’s incredibly steep and slippery. Do not go after rain and wear decent shoes!

The view from the top is outstanding, over the whole park, plus you can explore the cave too on the way up. Don’t underestimate this walk, as it’s hard on the knees, especially on the way down!

Stokes National Park

On the other side of town, you can drive an hour to reach Stokes National Park. About 85km west of Esperance, this national park is incredibly remote and is known for its excellent fishing and 4×4 driving. 

You can also camp in the park. Benwenerup Campground is suitable for two-wheel drive vehicles (must be booked online), while Skippy Rock and Fanny Cove are only suitable for four-wheel drives.

It’s far less visited than Cape Le Grand and has a very remote feel. It’s certainly not a must do in Esperance, but still an option if you’ve got plenty of time.

More Western Australia Guides

• Perth to Esperance: Ultimate 10-Day South West Road Trip
• Albany: 20 Best Things to Do in Albany
• Stirling Ranges: Best Hikes in the Stirling Range National Park
• Porongurups: Guide to the Granite Skywalk in Porongurup National Park
• Day Hikes: 12 Best Day Hikes in South West WA
• Camping: 15 Best Campgrounds in South West Western Australia
• Kalbarri: Perth to Kalbarri 5 Day Road Trip Itinerary
• Cape to Cape: Complete Guide to the Cape to Cape Track
• Bibbulmun Track: Complete Guide to Thru Hiking the Bibbulmun Track

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