18 Tips for the Kandy to Ella Train Ride: Everything You Need to Know

An old blue diesel train chugging through the lush green hills and tea plantations is an image that has become synonymous with the island nation of Sri Lanka. The Kandy to Ella train has become an iconic attraction and an experience that everyone wants to do during their time on the island.

While I’m not going to mention the word overrated (because it’s not), there is plenty of things that you need to know before you embark on one of the most beautiful train journeys in the world. From how to buy tickets to where to sit, what it’s like on the train, and how to avoid the chaotic crowds, it’s worth getting the most out of your train journey by doing it right.

After a few months in Sri Lanka and a few train rides under my belt, including to and from Ella, I have plenty to say about this famous train ride in the hills. Here are my top tips for the Kandy to Ella train journey in Sri Lanka, from what class to book to how much it costs and how to get those photos hanging out the door.

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What is the Kandy to Ella Train and Why is it so Famous?

The Kandy to Ella train is one of the most beautiful train journeys in the world. It’s fast become the most iconic experience to have in Sri Lanka, and you’ve likely seen the images of the blue trains chugging through green tea plantations while people hang out the side of the doors. It’s quintessential Sri Lanka, and considered a must do on any trip itinerary.

The train ride from Kandy to Ella is part of a much longer rail network that connects the capital, Colombo, with Badulla in the hills. The railway system was first introduced in Sri Lanka by the British colonialists in 1864. The train running from Kandy to Badulla has been operating since the 1920s, primarily to transport the famous tea to the port at Colombo. The original old steam trains were replaced with diesel trains in the 1950s and now the network operates mostly on Chinese made trains.

Since then, the population of Sri Lanka along with the burgeoning tourism industry has meant that passengers soon became the main revenue stream as opposed to freight for the railway network. Now, it’s become one of the most recognised train journeys in the world and you’ll find plenty of people on board with you.

Kandy to Ella Train Schedule

The official train line for this route begins in Colombo and ends in Badulla, but of course, you can get on and off at any of the stops en route. The most famous section is from Kandy to Ella. Daily departure times are as follows:

From Colombo Fort Rail Station: 05:55 am, 08:30 am, 09:45 am, 20:30 pm

From Kandy Railway Station: 03.30 am, 08:55 am, 11.10 am, 22:20 pm

From Nuwara Eliya/Nanu Oya Station: 03:42 am, 09:20 am, 12:45 pm, 14:36 pm, 16:08 pm

From Ella (to Badulla): 06:35 am, 13:24 pm, 15:09 pm, 18:26 pm

If you want to travel in the opposite direction back to Kandy or Colombo:

From Badulla: 05:45 am, 08:30 am, 10:15 am, 11:00 am, 17:50 pm

From Ella (trains take roughly an hour from Badulla to reach Ella): 06:39 am, 09:23 am, 11:11 am, 12:04 pm, 18:59 pm

Times may change each year, this is correct as of 2024.

Read next: 10 Best Things to Do in Kandy: An Essential Guide

Kandy to Ella Train Tickets and Prices

There are generally three classes on the trains that you can book; first, second and third class. Within those classes you can also purchase reserved seats (all classes) or unreserved tickets (no seat, second and third classes only).

You can book reserved seat tickets in advance either at the station or online. However, be aware that you’ll be charged a premium through third party ticket systems like 12go or Viator, but if you want a reserved seat in high season this will be the best option.

Otherwise, I recommend booking your tickets at the railway station directly. Any available tickets up until the day of travel can be purchased as a reserved seat, however, they can sell out quite quickly in high season.

The other option is to opt for an unreserved ticket, which you can get only on the day of travel and right up until departure (these ticket sales are uncapped – so they never sell out). This means you won’t be guaranteed a seat, but you can still get on the train! For more information on booking tickets for the Kandy to Ella train, keep reading.

Here’s a look at which class to purchase:

Third Class

While third class is often avoided by many tourists, don’t knock it. I recommend booking third class for this train journey, because it’s the cheapest and the one that the locals also opt for. The seating is generally unallocated, and tickets are sold right up until the train is departing, which means it can be a fight to get on board.

This means you’ll more than likely be standing for much of the journey, but it also allows you to move around and look out of the windows and doors. There are some reserved tickets for third class, which allocates you a bench seat, and this can also be a good option if you book well in advance. Note, unreserved tickets are cheaper than reserved.

Cost: 1300 LKR or USD $4 for reserved ticket from Kandy to Ella

Second Class

This is generally the most preferred class for tourists, because you get the freedom of hanging out the doors and windows like in third class but with more comfortable seating. You have the option for pre-booking a seat in second class, known as reserved seating, which you can do a month in advance.

You can also try your luck with unreserved tickets on the day of travel, but it’s unlikely you’ll get a seat at all, so you may as well save a little money and go for third class (although the price difference is very small).

Cost: 1800 LKR or USD $5.50 for reserved ticket from Kandy to Ella

First Class

First class has air conditioning and more comfortable seating with reserved seats only. The downside to first class is that the windows and doors are kept shut so you can’t take photos hanging out the side like you see on social media.

However, if you’re not worried about photos and prefer to sit back and relax in your own seat, then first class is a good option, and still quite affordable. These tickets tend to book out a month in advance as there’s usually only one carriage for first class per train.

Cost: 3,000 LKR or USD $10 for reserved ticket from Kandy to Ella

Looking to buy your tickets in advance?

Everything You Need to Know About the Kandy to Ella Train Ride: My Top Tips

Here’s everything you need to know about the Kandy to Ella train ride, including my top travel tips for catching this spectacular train journey.

Book at the Station (But Online in Peak Season, if You Want a Reserved Seat)

Booking tickets for the Kandy to Ella train dominates many discussions in hostels around Sri Lanka. Everyone wants to know how and when to book these tickets so they don’t miss out. In reality, you never actually miss out completely, as I mentioned above third class unreserved tickets are basically unlimited and sold right up until the train departs.

However, if you want to secure a seat or a second or first class ticket, then booking ahead is essential. I recommend booking at the train stations themselves. While this might be inconvenient for those short on time, it really is the best way of securing a ticket.

It’s also the cheapest option, as third party ticketing websites like 12go or Viator, charge a LOT more than the actual price of the ticket. Sometimes these websites can’t confirm your tickets either; I’ve heard good and bad experiences from those who’ve used them.

However, in high season and/or if you want to secure a seat, unfortunately booking online is often the only way to go. Tickets can be booked out days, if not weeks in advance, so booking at the station is not always possible for foreigners who are on a short trip. If you don’t want to settle for an unreserved ticket, then you’ll have to opt for those tour websites.

Purchase Second or Third Class

While most journeys are often best done in first class, this is not one of them. Second or third class tickets are the best on the Kandy to Ella train ride. These tickets allow you to experience the incredible views out of the windows and doors more easily, especially as you can sit in the doorways and take photos out of the windows (in first class all windows and doors are closed for the AC).

It also provides more of an insight into local life, as almost all of the locals opt for third class (and occasionally second class). If you want less crowds, second class is often better for this reason, but I personally think third class provides the most entertaining and insightful experience.

Take the Earliest Train Possible

If you want to try and avoid more of the crowds, I’d recommend taking the earliest train possible for your given route. For the Kandy to Ella train, that means taking the 8:55 am instead of the 11.10 am for example. If you’re going in the other direction (from Ella back to Kandy), I’d recommend the 6:39 am train rather than the 9:23 am or 11:11 am.

This will help you avoid some of the tourist crowd that builds up on the platforms for the later trains. Even if it means an early morning, it’s totally worth it, trust me!

Trains are (Almost) Always Delayed

Some websites might urge you to arrive an hour or two early for your train, but I can wholeheartedly say don’t bother! Trains are almost always delayed, and delays can be in hours not just a few minutes. The trains start in Colombo and continue all the way to Badulla, meaning that by the time it reaches Kandy it’s often been delayed for various reasons.

To save yourself unnecessary time waiting on the platform, I recommend just arriving a leisurely 15 minutes or so before the scheduled arrival time. If you have a reserved ticket, you’ll have a seat allocated already. If you only have an unreserved ticket, arriving early won’t secure you a seat or a better position on the train so you’ll only waste time (sleep in instead).

For those who are really nervous about missing their train, major stations usually have a small tea shop or cafe to buy some tea or snacks to pass the time. My train was at least an hour delayed for each leg of the journey I did.

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Be Prepared to Push and Shove

The train stations can be a hectic place, especially when the train arrives at the platform. Everything seems quite calm, but as soon as that train rolls to a stop, it can seem chaotic as people are trying to get off the train and new passengers are trying to get on.

It’s also a bit more challenging when you have tourists and foreigners who don’t know what carriage is third or second class, and people are trying to find a carriage with the least amount of people on them. If you’re boarding or disembarking the train at Colombo, Kandy, Nuwara Eliya (Nanu-Oya), or Ella, you’ll definitely experience this chaos.

Locals and tourists alike push and shove their way onto the train, so sometimes you need to get involved or you’ll miss out on a good spot or a good carriage. This is especially true of course for those who just grab an unreserved ticket as this is when you don’t have a designated place to be within your class.

Story time. When I was boarding from Nuwara Eliya (Nanuoya) to Ella, I opted for the 9:25am train. It was delayed more than an hour, so the platform quickly filled and a hundred people were trying to squeeze onto just two carriages. I decided to stay away from pushing onto the train and just wait for the next one just two hours away. That train was also delayed for an hour, so I was at the station for five hours in total… backpacking is fun!

It’s Incredibly Touristy and Crowded (Don’t Expect a Serene “Local” Experience)

The popularity of the train has meant that it’s become an incredibly touristy thing to do. It’s widely considered one of the essential experiences in Sri Lanka, which I don’t disagree with. However, you must realise that it’s not as serene and “local” as Instagram or other social media may have you think.

The train is filled with tourists and it’s not exactly a beautiful, off the beaten track experience that it once was a decade ago. If you prefer this kind of experience, I’d recommend taking the train from Colombo to Kandy or from Ella to Badulla. You’ll see far less foreigners, more locals, and the crowds are generally more spread out, especially on the early morning trains. (Taking the train from Ella to Badulla and back in one morning is easily one of my best tips, more on this below.)

Sit on the Best Side for the Views

As the train chugs through the countryside, the most famous part of the ride is the incredible views you’ll get from the doors and windows. It’s considered one of the most beautiful train journeys in the world for a reason. And it does matter what side you sit on.

On the ride from Kandy to Nuwara Eliya, sit on the right side of the train as this allows you to see the expansive hills and tea plantations. On the left side, you’ll mostly see cliffs, grass, and trees.

From Nuwara Eliya (Nanuoya) to Ella, try to switch to the left side, but it’s actually less important for this stretch as both sides get almost equally nice views.

From Ella to Badulla, the left side of the train is the best option. Of course, switch it over to the right on the way back.

Be Prepared for a Very Long Ride

As I’ve mentioned, the trains are often delayed, which means the travel times are usually much longer than what the timetable states. For example, it’s often said that the Kandy to Ella trip takes 6-7 hours, but you should expect at least 8 hours, if not up to 9 or 10. Yes, seriously.

It can be a long day on the train, but it’s certainly worth it as you’re entertained by the beautiful views. However, just be prepared for a lengthy journey with whatever you need, including food and water (more on what I recommend you take below).

Get the Right Train (Not the Goods Train)

Don’t make the mistake of taking the Slow (Goods) Train from Kandy to Ella as this takes a minimum 10 hours but more like 12+ hours. The Goods Train starts and ends in Kandy and is painfully slow, so don’t take that one!

The Goods Train timetable currently (2024) is leaving Kandy to Ella at 3:30 am, and returning from Ella to Kandy at 12:04 pm.

Do the Train Journey in Sections (If You Have the Time)

If an 8 hour train ride sounds way too long for you, then definitely break it up into sections. In fact, I highly recommend doing this as you can also avoid some crowds by starting on an earlier train further up the line and you get to explore more of the country.

The most popular option and the one that I did was go from Kandy to Nanuoya (Nuwara Eliya), spend a couple of days in Nuwara Eliya and then take the train on to Ella from there. You can also make a stop for a couple of days in Haputale, a beautiful and peaceful hillside town. It all depends on how much time you have on your Sri Lanka itinerary!

Discover Some Day Tours Around Ella!

Or, Do it in Reverse (From Ella to Kandy)

An option to avoid the crowds is to do the train journey in reverse. While almost everyone jumps on board for the Kandy to Ella train, only half or less decide to do it in the opposite direction.

This makes it a great way to avoid the hoards of tourists crowding at the Kandy train station. You can also easily head to the station before Ella which is called Demodara, only about 3km away from Ella train station towards Badulla. Hop on the train there where you’ll easily get a seat, and then watch as the chaos ensues at Ella when it rolls in.

For a (Better) Shorter Version, Travel from Ella to Badulla (and Back)

One of my top Sri Lanka travel tips is to simply take the train from Ella to Badulla and back. This might be a bit controversial, but I’d almost recommend forgetting about the train from Kandy to Ella altogether and going to Ella by bus (much quicker). Then once in Ella, spend a morning heading to Badulla and back on the train.

The journey from Ella to the end of the train line at Badulla is only about an hour or so, one way. I recommend taking the first train in the morning from Ella to Badulla which is the Night Mail Train departing at 6:35 am (when I did, it was an hour delayed so it left at 7:35 am).

The good news is that from Badulla back to Ella there are several options for trains in the morning. You can take the 8:30 am, 10:15 am, or 11 am train back to Ella.

The train carriage was completely empty when I got on at Ella and I got to enjoy the train ride completely to myself with just a few locals. I could sit in the doorways, walk around with ease, and admire the views in peace. It also means you take the train over the famous Nine Arch Bridge, which is between Ella and Demodara. I actually really liked being on the train over the bridge rather than being one of the tourists standing on the ground watching it pass by!

If you have time in Badulla before the next train, jump into a tuk tuk and head to Dunhinda Waterfall, just 7km or 20 minutes down the road. From the entrance there, it’s about 1.5 km or 30 minute walk one way to the viewpoint of the waterfall. Allow two hours for the total visit to/from the train station if you can. I was in a hurry to get back to Badulla Railway Station for the 11am train back to Ella which I just made on time! Entrance to Dunhinda Waterfall is 350 LKR (USD $1.50) for foreigners. Expect to bargain around 1500-2000 LKR (USD $5-7) for a tuk tuk to and from the train station.

Read next: 10 Best Things to Do in Ella: An Essential Guide

Consider Taking the Train from Colombo to Kandy as Well

Another way you can admire the incredible views with less tourists is to take the train from Colombo to Kandy. I actually have two friends who argue that the train trip from Colombo to Kandy is just as or if not more beautiful than the Kandy to Ella train.

While the train may be busy with locals, it does provide a more authentic journey. You can also admire the changing landscape as you move from the city up into the mountains and the lush greenery of Kandy.

It Gets Cold in the Tea Plantations, Pack a Jacket

The weather changes dramatically as you ascend from the low coastal regions around Colombo up to the hills in Kandy and further into the tea plantations around Nuwara Eliya and Ella.

In fact, Nuwara Eliya is one of the coldest places in Sri Lanka with temperatures being lower than half of what you’ll find back in Colombo. I recommend carrying at least a light jacket on the train with you, as you’ll feel the cool breeze coming into the carriages as you get up into the hills.

There are Toilets on Board and Some Street Food

You’ll find toilets on some of the carriages, so you can easily walk a short distance to the bathroom from wherever you are on the train. They’re actually not as bad as you might expect, but it can vary from train to train. Make sure you have some toilet paper with you!

For the long journey, you’ll also find a few vendors wandering the train with snacks or wade. There’s always something interesting, mostly deep fried snacks that are delicious! There’s usually a tea or chai vendor wandering around too. But if you want anything more substantial you’ll have to bring your own. Don’t forget to bring water as well to avoid buying single use plastic bottles on board.

Hanging Out the Train Doors Can Be Dangerous (Be Cautious)

Without trying to sound too much like your paranoid mother, be careful when hanging out the train doors and windows. I know everyone else is doing it and you’ve seen it a million times on social media, but the train does come scarily close to the cliffs and tunnel walls during the journey.

I saw plenty of people hanging out the doors for a photo, completely unaware of what was coming from behind them as the train hurtled forward. Some people hit grass or branches as they hung outside, but it’d be easy to hit signs, brick walls, trees and other more dangerous obstacles.

I actually heard of a horror story of a guy who was hanging out the door and hit a sign on the train track and was rushed to hospital with serious injuries. Don’t be like that guy!

Be Polite and Respectful to Elderly People and Locals

One of my pet hates about overly popular tourist attractions is when I see people being rude to locals or not being considerate of older people. At the end of the day, the majority of local people on the train will be travelling to work, school, or to visit family or even head into the city. This is an everyday transportation service for them and not a tourist attraction.

While the locals I met on the train understood that we were all very excited to be there, it’s important to still be polite and respectful to them. Make room for elderly people, even offer your seat if you have one. And please, don’t put cameras in people’s faces without asking politely.

If you Want More Luxury, Consider the Ella Odyssey Train

This is a new addition to the train network in Sri Lanka and completely aimed at tourists. The Ella Odyssey was introduced in 2022 as a train journey from Colombo to Badulla on a more luxury train that also stops briefly at some of the most popular tourist attractions between Kandy and Badulla.

Currently the train only runs on weekends, travelling from Colombo to Badulla on Saturday and returning on Sunday. If travelling on this train from Kandy to Ella, the ticket prices are 4000 LKR for first class, 3000 LKR for second class,and 2000 LKR for third class.

The train stops at all major stations as well as several viewpoints for photographs. Some of the additional photo stops include waterfall viewpoints, Adam’s Peak (Sri Pada) viewpoint, tunnel views and the Nine Arches Bridge.

You can book this train at least 2 weeks in advance at train stations or through tour operators.

Frequently Asked Questions About the Kandy to Ella Train

Some quick fire questions and answers with the essential information you need to know about the train ride to Ella from the most popular questions people ask.

How much does the Kandy to Ella train cost?

The cost of the Kandy to Ella train depends on the class and whether you purchase reserved or unreserved tickets. For reserved seats, you can expect to pay 1300 LKR or USD $4 for third class and 3,000 LKR or USD $10 for first class. Unreserved tickets are quite a bit cheaper as you’re not guaranteed a seat.

In comparison, if you purchase tickets in advance online through a tour operator, you can expect to pay around USD $22 for second or third class reserved tickets.

Where does the Kandy to Ella train stop?

The Kandy to Ella train has many stops along the way. Some are major train stations, while others are just little platforms in small villages and in between towns. You can purchase tickets for different legs of the journey, as you don’t have to do the entire trip in one hit if you want to enjoy some of the other places en route.

Some of the main stops that might interest travellers include:

• Colombo Fort (the start/end of the line)
• Peradeniya
• Kandy
• Hatton (for Adam’s Peak)
• Nanuoya (the closest to Nuwara Eliya)
• Haputale
• Ella
• Badulla (the start/end of the line)

How long is the train ride from Kandy to Ella?

The Kandy to Ella train ride takes much longer than the timetable usually states. It’s generally said that the train ride takes about 6 hours, but expect it to take up to 8 hours with delays. This is a long time to be on a train (and standing if you don’t get a seat), so be prepared for a long journey!

Which class should you book for the Kandy to Ella train?

As I’ve mentioned a few times, I highly recommend third class. While it’s the least comfortable, you’ll get to enjoy the company of locals and be able to feel the breeze out of the windows and take photos out of the doors. Second class is similar but you’ll find slightly more comfortable seats, if you can snag one.

Is the Kandy to Ella train journey worth it?

Alright, I’ve complained about the crowds and the long journey and the delayed trains a bit, but yes I still think that the Kandy to Ella train is worth doing. It’s definitely one of the most beautiful train rides in the world and one of the best I’ve ever done. However, don’t worry about doing the full Kandy to Ella journey in a day. I’ve provided plenty of options above where you can change it up from the standard tourist route.

Either break the journey up into sections by exploring more of the hill towns en route to Ella, or just opt for the shorter but just as beautiful section from Ella to Badulla to get a taste of the journey. You won’t regret it!

Read next: 25 Amazing Things to Do in Sri Lanka

Where to Stay in Ella

Ella has an endless variety of home stays, hostels, guesthouses and upscale resorts. Accommodation has exploded in recent years, so there’s plenty of choices:

Wild Bee Hostel | A beautiful hostel with outstanding views and a short walk from the main street.

Quiet Rest Inn | A truly friendly homestay just behind the main street in Ella at very budget-friendly prices.

Eminence Ella Guesthouse | A midrange guesthouse with comfortable rooms just a short walk from the main street.

The Spice Lodge | A pretty midrange guesthouse outside of town but not far from the Nine Arches Bridge.

Country Homes | A more upper midrange option that is popular for its hospitality and beautiful views, a home in the tea plantations.

Where to Stay in Kandy

You’ll find great value accommodation in Kandy. Most hotels and guesthouses are spread out in town and into the surrounding hills, so choose wisely:

White Rose Hostel | A boutique homestay with dorms and private rooms walking distance to the city centre.

Selyna Sky Terrace | A welcoming and budget friendly guesthouse with private rooms away from the bustling centre.

SWP Eco Lodge | A mid-range eco lodge close to the lake in Kandy and surrounded by nature.

The Radh Hotel | A luxury hotel right in the heart of the city for those looking for comfort and convenience.

Where to Next? More Sri Lanka Travel Guides:

• Kandy: 10 Best Things to Do in Kandy: An Essential Guide
• Ella: 10 Best Things to Do in Ella
• Sigiriya: Ultimate Guide to Sigiriya: Sri Lanka’s Cultural Triangle
• Trincomalee: Trincomalee Travel Guide: Sri Lanka’s Underrated Beach Destination
• Hiriketiya: Hiriketiya: A Guide to Sri Lanka’s Little Coastal Paradise
• Weligama: Review of Layback Surf Camp in Weligama
• Galle: Best Things to Do in Galle in 2 Days
• Colombo: 24 Hours in Colombo: Best Things to Do in Colombo
• Jaffna: 10 Best Things to Do in Jaffna, North Sri Lanka
• Digital Nomad Travel: Digital Nomad in Sri Lanka: A Guide for Remote Workers
• Learning to Surf: A Guide for Beginner Surfers in Sri Lanka

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