Elisha
The bohemian surfer crowd has moved to the coastline of Ahangama and Midigama in Sri Lanka. This is where you’ll find digital nomads, surfers, yogis and backpackers all converging to create the fun bars, vegan cafes, and cute boutique shops that are popping up all over the place.
A few years ago, you could blink and drive through Ahangama without even noticing it. Now, it has emerged as the next “it” place to be in Sri Lanka. It’s home to some of the best surf breaks in the country, offering variety around every corner for beginners through to advanced surfers.
And with beachside hipster cafes, small stores selling oversized surf tees, surfboard rental shacks lining the coast, and yoga shalas hidden amongst the jungle inland, people come here and never leave.
It’s no longer a secret or an underrated spot; in fact, it’s bustling all through high season now. However, few places offer the enticing lifestyle of a sunrise surf followed by a beachside smoothie bowl and coconut, and the day ending with live music and cocktails at sunset and a party at a skate bowl late into the night.
If you want to join the cool crowd in Ahangama, this post details everything you need to know about visiting, staying or surfing there, including the best things to do in Ahangama and Midigama.
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Ahangama or Midigama: Which is Better?
They’re located just 5-10 minutes apart on the south coast, but both towns offer a very different vibe. Ahangama is busier, more vibrant, chaotic, and packed full of great cafes and shops. While Midigama has a more local feel, offering more seclusion and a laidback atmosphere without any real trendy boutiques in sight.
If you want a vibrant nightlife, plenty of surf options, brunch cafes, and something going on every day, then Ahangama might be your choice. Whereas, if you want a private room amongst the jungle, a short walk to the beach, and delicious food served by friendly locals, then Midigama would be better.
I personally preferred to stay in Midigama and simply grab a tuk tuk or ride a scooter to Ahangama whenever I wanted to go to a nice café or surf somewhere different. If you don’t mind doing day trips, then Midigama is a really nice middle ground between the bustling towns of Ahangama and Weligama.
How to Get to Ahangama and Midigama
One of the most scenic ways to reach Ahangama is on the train. There are stations for both Ahangama and Midigama on the southern train line that runs along the coast from Colombo to Matara. There are several departures every day and you can purchase tickets at the station.
You can also take any of the local buses that travel along the south coast. You’ll find frequent departures all day from Colombo and Galle to Matara, where you can get off in Ahangama or Midigama. You don’t have to pre-book, just turn up at the station and get on the next departure. Make sure it’s a local bus which uses the coast road, not the express highway buses that travel inland to Matara.
For something more convenient and comfortable, it’s also very easy to take a tuk tuk or private driver from anywhere on the south coast directly to your accommodation in Ahangama or Midigama. Prices are usually very reasonable but agree with your driver before setting off on your trip.
Read next: 26 Travel Tips for Sri Lanka: Everything You Need to Know
When is the Best Time to Visit Ahangama
As with most of the south coast of Sri Lanka, the best time to visit Ahangama is during the dry season which typically runs from November until April. The best months tend to be from December-February which also happen to be the busiest months to visit, so you’ll have to book things in advance most likely.
However, being a tropical island, Sri Lanka sees rain at any time of the year. Even when I stayed in Ahangama for a month in November, it rained some days, but generally we had decent weather.
From May until October, the monsoon moves south, making the north of Sri Lanka a better place to visit, especially Trincomalee, Jaffna, and Arugam Bay.
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Where to Stay in Ahangama
Plenty of accommodation has popped up around Ahangama and Midigama in recent years. You can literally find anything from five-star resorts to hostels, and everything in between, including surf camps, yoga retreats, and family-friendly hotels.
Here’s where I recommend staying in Ahangama:
Mellow Hostel | Close to Kabalana Beach, this hostel and café is a wonderful place to stay in Ahangama. It has both dormitories and private rooms, plus a great onsite café and co-working space. They offer fun entertainment for guests including yoga, movie nights and more. Check prices here.
Coco Bliss Villa | This mid-range guesthouse is perfect for those on a budget but looking for more seclusion than a hostel. The local owners are lovely, plus it’s not far from Kabalana Beach. They offer basic private ensuite rooms. Check prices here.
Dreamsea | Offering both fancy dorm rooms and private rooms, this incredible hotel right on the beach in Ahangama is quickly becoming a favourite. Direct beach access, an outdoor pool, fitness and spa centre, plus live music and entertainment, this is the place to be. Check prices here.
Elements Ahangama | Right in the heart of Ahangama on the beach side, this comfortable multi-storey guesthouse offers neat private rooms, some with sea views. The rooftop terrace is the best place to be at sunset with panoramic views. Check prices here.
Where to Stay in Midigama
Midigama is the calmer version of Ahangama. You’ll find mostly family-run guesthouses, a couple of hostels and some resorts on the waterfront, but not as many options.
Surfing Wombats | A classic hostel just a couple of hundred metres back from Midigama beach, this is the place to go to meet other travellers. They also have a pizzeria onsite, so it attracts travellers from all over Midigama in the evenings. Check prices here.
Mangroves Homestay | This is where I stayed for a couple of weeks in Midigama. This lovely homestay is an absolute hidden gem. The family are some of the loveliest people you’ll meet, and the house is amongst a beautiful garden. They offer several private rooms, walking distance to the beach.
Lotus Surf House | Just down the road from Mangroves, this local surf house is a slightly more comfortable place to stay for surfers or couples looking to get up early to surf and come back to a spacious modern room. The owners are super nice too. Check prices here.
Midigama Holiday Inn | Another exceptional guesthouse run by a local family, this place is ideal. Just a street back from the beach, with large private AC rooms, plus plenty of outdoor space for yoga or dining. Check prices here.
Where to Eat in Ahangama
Ahangama has arguably the best collection of trendy cafes in the entire country, in my opinion. It has world class food, from beachfront classy brunch spots to organic, vegan buffets, you’ll find a mix of local and international cuisine served in style.
I ate my way along the entire south coast during my trips to Sri Lanka, so here’s my favourite places to eat in Ahangama:
Cactus – The place to be for brunch in Ahangama, you’ll likely have to line up to eat here in dry season. Located with sea views and a classic beachy vibe, their smoothies, juices, matcha and variety of brunch options are to die for.
Follow the White Rabbit Restaurant – A beachfront vegan, gluten free paradise, this restaurant and bar is ideal for sunset drinks or post-surf brunch. It’s not overly cheap but you’ll find everything from burgers to sourdough toast, to rice and curry, and plenty of homemade cakes.
Veda Café – Just across from Kabalana Beach, this organic vegetarian restaurant has one of the best rice and curries in the country. With ayurvedic drinks, local coffee, and a buffet style vegetarian rice and curry menu every day, it’s a must visit.
TIFFINS The Dosa Shop – Located in the main street of Ahangama, this South Indian hole in the wall restaurant serves up authentic dosas, vada, and masala chai. The owners are so friendly and serve as quick as possible. I visited several times for a quick lunch, and always loved it.
Sun Fun – A friend and I stumbled upon this little spot for sunset one night and then returned a couple of times in a row. Built just on the edge of the ocean, the lovely local couple running this spot are lovely. We had sunset drinks and snacks like Nutella roti, and enjoyed the incredible view.
The Kip – A jungle hideaway just inland from Ahangama, this hotel-café-shop combo focuses on local food, slow living and sustainability. It’s just back from Kabalana Beach and features a tapas-style menu where you can pick several small plates to try their home-grown ingredients.
Kaffi Ahangama – You’ll find these coffee and cake shops in various surf towns in Sri Lanka, but this one has a nice outdoor garden right on the ocean so it’s perfect for an afternoon sweet treat or post-surf coffee. They focus on employing local women which we love!
Where to Eat in Midigama
Less trendy, more local, restaurants in Midigama are laidback hangouts serving up local food with a few western favourites like smoothie bowls thrown into the mix. After living in Midigama for weeks, here’s where we ate:
Right Corner – Located just across from the beach at the main intersection in Midigama, this spot was my go-to for brunch or post-surf meal. Simple but delicious food by a local family, and reasonable prices. Their smoothie bowls were amazing!
ChillOut Lounge – Hidden down a side street just across the train tracks, this locally owned café has a trendy vibe, but keeps their prices much cheaper than anything in Ahangama. I came here every day for two weeks straight because it was so close to where I was staying, and I loved it everytime.
Golden Beach Hotel – Just across from Right Corner café, this local restaurant is super cheap and cheerful, with friendly staff who offer all the local favourites.
Best Things to Do in Ahangama and Midigama
Along this stretch of coast from Ahangama to Midigama, you’ll find plenty of things to do. While surfing definitely is the reason many travellers stop here, there’s good food, yoga classes, boutique shops, and more to keep anyone busy for a few days.
Here are the best things to do in Ahangama and Midigama:
Relax on the Beach
The beaches in Ahangama and Midigama are certainly not the most beautiful, compared to Tangalle or Hiriketiya. But that’s mostly because they’re surf beaches rather than places to sit and relax.
However, you can still find places to sit on the beach under the palm trees. Kabalana Beach is the nicest beach in the area and a beginner surf beach. It also has plenty of sand in the dry season with cabanas and sun beds for you to sit and enjoy the sun.
Ahangama Beach is a small stretch of sand along the main part of Ahangama town. It’s the strip of beach that you can see in front of the popular cafes like Cactus, Dreamsea, and Mermaids Kitchen. Most of these restaurants spill straight onto the sand, so there’s not much room for sitting on the beach here.
There is a little cove known as Ahangama Secret Beach (it seems that a lot of south coast towns have their own “secret beach”). It can be accessed between Ahangama and Midigama, just after the Soul & Surf hotel complex.
Midigama Beach is an underrated spot to relax. It’s much quieter than Ahangama, and there are quite a few locally owned beach cabanas and sun beds where you can sit as long as you purchase a coconut or drink from the vendors. The waves can be strong here on shore, but if you’re a strong swimmer you can still go in for a dip. Or, head out for a surf.
Go Surfing (or Learn to Surf)
Ahangama is arguably the best surfing spot on the south coast of Sri Lanka. The coast along Ahangama and Midigama have several surf breaks to choose from, including beginner friendly and more advanced spots.
Many surf camps based in Weligama transport their guests to Ahangama every day to surf, so you know you’ll almost always be in a crowd in high season. However, it’s for good reason. The surf breaks offer something for everyone. Here’s where you should head out to surf:
- Kabalana Beach is a beginner-friendly beach break that has surfboard rentals on the beach and a safe place to learn to surf
- Sticks is a part beach and reef break named after the famous stick fishermen, you can rent boards at Sticks (a small café/bar overlooking the surf spot) and you access the water through the café. It’s best suited to intermediate and advanced surfers
- Marshmellow is another spot just next to Sticks over a reef that can be easily accessed off the beach there. There is a board rental place just close by and the mellow waves here are good for intermediate surfers
- Gas Station is a lesser-known spot that is often quieter but is great for intermiedate and advanced surfers. This deeper reef break has both left and right waves and can be accessed on the side of the road from a small patch of sand. There’s no board rental here, so bring your own
- Devils Rock is a more powerful a-frame reef break that is best suited to intermediates and advanced surfers who are comfortable navigating a rocky entry and steeper wave
- Lazy Left Midigama (and Lazy Right) are the two main breaks at the main beach in Midigama. Both are considered intermediate-advanced as when the swell is good, the waves can be big yet still mellow. Lazy Right has shallower reef and rock, while Lazy Left is deeper, but a longer paddle out. There’s board rental across the street from the beach
Read next: Learning to Surf in Sri Lanka, a Guide for Beginners
Eat Brunch at Any of the Cafes
A post-surf brunch is essential routine in Sri Lanka – and Ahangama has the best to offer. Some of the best cafes can be found along the main road in Ahangama, particularly the beachside options.
More and more are added it seems every year, so there’s no shortage of places to find hipster brunch spots with smoothie bowls, smashed avocado on sourdough and other not-so-Sri Lankan breakfast options. They’re pricey, but worth it if you appreciate good food.
I listed some of my favourite places to eat above in both Ahangama and Midigama. But if you’re looking specifically for brunch, Cactus, Follow the White Rabbit, Mellow Restaurant & Bar, and Marshmellow Surf Café are all top picks right in Ahangama. In Midigama, you can’t go past Right Corner for a locally owned spot on the beach or Zippi Café for proper good coffee and matcha.
Shop the Boutiques
A creative scene is booming on the south coast inspired by the ocean and slow living surf lifestyle. Now, you’ll find little boutiques popping up along the main road in Ahangama with everything from oversized printed tees to more bohemian style high-end pieces.
Some of the best boutiques worth checking out if you have the time (and money) include:
Secrets of the Sun: This is one of the coolest concept stores with beautiful clothing, jewellery and other pieces.
Living The Dream: A slow fashion store with handmade pieces from Sri Lanka, particularly beautiful linen pieces.
Tropical Essentials: A little store focusing on retro surf inspired apparel, from hats to t-shirts and swimwear.
Ceylon Sliders: This beachside bar and restaurant also has a great surf shop selling locally owned and made brands with swimwear, surf wear, and more. If you’re looking for high quality surf tees and surf bikinis, this is a must visit.
Sunset Cocktails and Music at Ceylon Sliders
Speaking of Ceylon Sliders, you should definitely aim to visit around sunset time. Their outdoor deck looks right over the ocean and Marshmellow surf spot so it’s the perfect spot for some happy hour cocktails.
They also have live music every weekend, so it’s definitely a great spot to head to with new friends post-surf.
Join a Yoga Class
There’s no surf town without some yoga studios and Ahangama and Midigama are no different. If you’re looking to stretch out your limbs after a surf or long travel day, there are several places to find drop-in classes.
Most drop-in classes are around 3000 LKR per class, but check with the studios website or Instagram profiles for the updated pricing and schedule. In high season, most studios post a weekly schedule on their social media.
The best spot is definitely Senses Sri Lanka, which has a huge shala and studio amongst the inland jungle, about a 10-minute drive from Ahangama or 6-minute drive from Midigama. They offer daily classes of sound healing, ecstatic dance, breathwork and different yoga. Plus, immersive teacher training too.
A smaller more intimate yoga shala is Shramalaya surrounded by a flowing river. It’s less than 5-minutes inland from Midigama Beach. They offer a range of yoga classes every day in high season.
The Nuga House is a beautiful hotel and yoga studio just back from Kabalana Beach. You can join their drop-in classes everyday in high season. And they might even let you use their pool and showers afterwards!
Be Productive at a Coworking Space
It’s no surprise that digital nomads are flocking to Ahangama to stay long-term. The sea, surf, sun, palm trees, cafes, shops, and bars are enough to entice anyone to want to relocate to the south coast of Sri Lanka. This means that coworking places are slowly emerging if you want to get high-speed internet and quiet places to work that aren’t noisy cafes.
Focus Hub Co-Working Café is the best option with a coffee and food menu, comfy seating, and private rooms for making calls or meetings. They have daily, weekly and monthly rates depending on how long you’re staying.
On the other hand, there are a few coliving places designed specifically for digital nomads looking to stay and work in the same spot. Colive Ahangama and NETS Cowork are two of the best options for this. Both are tucked into the jungle just back from the coast in Ahangama.
Read next: Digital Nomad Guide to Sri Lanka
Party and Skate at Lamana
A relatively new addition to the nightlife scene in Ahangama, Lamana has quickly gained traction as one of the coolest places to be seen on a weekend. It’s a restaurant and bar surrounding a huge skate bowl.
Their weekly parties are always epic, but the entry price can be high, and it gets crowded in high season. Still, it’s definitely one of the best parties on the south coast if you want some fun on a Thursday night.
Lamana is only open during high season from October to end of April.
Explore the Rice Fields
While 90% of tourists stay directly on the coastline of the south, there’s beauty in just going 5-minutes inland to the rice fields. The winding backroads through the jungle and fields just inland from Ahangama and Midigama are worth exploring if you want to get away from the traffic noise and see local life away from the ocean.
Simply jump on a scooter and explore the backroads yourself, or head to a cafe located inland to enjoy the peace and tranquility with good local food. Black Honey Cafe is a good option, feeling like a haven amongst the inland fields with organic food and exceptional service.
Day Trip to Galle Fort
Galle Fort is one of the truly beautiful places on the south coast of Sri Lanka. The old colonial-era fortress and town was my favourite street photography spot, with intricate details, cobblestone streets, and incredible sunsets.
The fort is now filled with boutiques, cafes, tea shops, souvenir shops, and hotels. The historic centre and lighthouse is easily walkable in a day, so instead of opting to stay overnight in Galle, you can visit on a day trip from Ahangama.
Galle is just a 30-minute drive from Ahangama. You can take any bus heading along the coast road towards Galle. Or, take the train for something slower and more scenic. However, the ride takes nearly an hour, so allow a bit more time for that.
Read next: 12 Best Things to Do in Galle Fort
Take a Cooking Class
Sri Lankan is easily some of the best in the world for me. It’s not just rice and curry, with so much flavour, diversity, and colour. I highly recommend taking a cooking class at some point in your trip to Sri Lanka.
If you want to do it in Ahangama, then I recommend going to Deevi Cookery Experience near Kabalana Beach. This really local experience is super fun and you’ll learn how to make various curries, roti, string hoppers and more.
Tour the Handunugoda Tea Estate
If you don’t have time on your Sri Lanka itinerary to head to Ella and the hills, you can still visit a tea estate not far from Ahangama.
Handunugoda Estate is just a 10-minute drive inland from Ahangama. You can visit the historic estate with old tea machinery still in use and join a tea tasting to learn about the different nuances in flavour with the tea making process. The standard tour is just 1000 LKR per person.
It’s home to the unique virgin white tea which is the only tea in the world not touched by hands. For tea lovers, this is a must-visit!
Visit the Turtle Farm & Hatchery at Koggala Beach
Sri Lanka is home to five different sea turtle varieties: Olive Ridley Turtle, Loggerhead Turtle, Green Turtle, Hawksbill Turtle and Leatherhead Turtle. It’s pretty common to see them when you’re surfing or swimming out in the ocean, which is such a cool experience.
However, all their major nesting places are along the south coast and are becoming endangered due to the constant construction and human activity. The Koggala Turtle Farm is working hard to protect the turtles especially during their hatching process and in rehabilitating injured turtles.
You can visit their facility and learn all about their work with a volunteer. It’s really worth a visit to understand the meaningful work they do and how you can help in the conservation efforts. Visiting and donating means you’re directly supporting them!
Contact them on Whatsapp to book a tour or visit.
Go on Safari
If you’re only in Sri Lanka for a short time and not travelling much around the country, it’s possible to do a safari day trip to Udawalawe National Park from Ahangama. It’s a long day with a lot of driving, but it’s worth it if you want to see wild elephants without travelling all the way to Yala National Park or other places around Sri Lanka.
Udawalawe is one of the less visited parks, so it’s quieter and offers a much more intimate experience. It’s also possible to see other animals like buffalo, monkeys, and crocodiles there, although unfortunately leopards are more likely to be seen in Yala than Udawalawe.
More Sri Lanka Travel Guides
- South Sri Lanka: Ultimate 2 Week South Sri Lanka Itinerary
- Sigiriya: Ultimate Guide to Sigiriya: Sri Lanka’s Cultural Triangle
- Ella: 10 Best Things to Do in Ella: An Essential Guide
- Kandy: 10 Best Things to Do in Kandy
- Weligama: Layback Surf Camp Review in Weligama
- Hiriketiya: Hiriketiya Beach: A Guide to Sri Lanka’s Little Coastal Paradise
- Tangalle: 11 Best Things to Do in Tangalle
- Jaffna: 10 Best Things to Do in Jaffna
- Trincomalee: Trincomalee Travel Guide: Underrated Beach Destination in Sri Lanka
- Colombo: Best Things to Do in Colombo in 24 Hours
- Galle: 2 Days in Galle Fort: Best Things to Do in Galle
- North Sri Lanka: 10 Day North Sri Lanka Itinerary
- Arugam Bay: 10 Best Things to Do in Arugam Bay
- Delft Island: How to Visit Delft Island: Sri Lanka’s Remote Island Near Jaffna
- SIM Card: Buying a SIM Card for Sri Lanka, Which is Better?
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