Elisha
The ancient rock-cut city of Vardzia is an unforgettable sight in Georgia. The cave city sits high above the Mtkvari River deep in a rural valley of sandy-coloured rugged rock. From afar, it appears like a montage of hollow windows but, in fact, it’s the remains of one of Georgia’s largest cave monasteries and cities of the 12th century.
A day trip to Vardzia is certainly a highlight from my time in Georgia and it’s surprisingly quite accessible despite it feeling quite remote.
Many people reach the ancient city on a day tour, however, it’s also possible to plan a day trip to Vardzia as an independent, budget traveller. Here’s a comprehensive guide on getting to Vardzia independently, whether you plan on doing it within a day from Tbilisi or have the time to stop for the night.
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What is Vardzia?
The Vardzia cave complex in south western Georgia is the largest and most impressive of the ancient cave towns in Georgia. Construction first began in the 12th century and continued to expand under Queen Tamar into one of the largest cave cities in the region. At its peak it was home to up to 50, 000 people within its 6000 rooms and for many years it was safe from impending Mongol attacks.
An earthquake in the late 13th century destroyed much of the city but monks continued to live within the caves until a Persian attack in 1551. It was completely abandoned in the 16th century when the region came under Ottoman rule.
The caves and tunnels had a throne room, a church, a wine cellar and a bell tower and remnants of these structures can still be seen at the complex today. The Church of the Dormition is the most impressive part of the site with intricate paintings, archways and hanging bells.
For the most part, you are free to roam through the tunnels and in the caves. The Church is one of the places you’ll come across at the beginning and then you can make your way through the place at your leisure. At the other side of the complex, you’ll find a tunnel that leads to the bottom and loops back to the entrance and ticket office.
Essential Information for a Day Trip to Vardzia
Opening hours: Every day from 10am until 7pm (closes at 5pm in winter)
Entry ticket: The entrance ticket is 15 Lari (AU$8) and there’s also the option of paying 2 Lari for a vehicle transfer to the main entrance which is just up the hill.
Audio guide: An audio guide is available for independent travellers and costs 15 Lari (AU$8).
How long to spend at Vardzia: 2-3 hours is enough time to wander the cave city independently.
What to Do in Vardzia
You can easily spend 2-3 hours wandering around the cave city of Vardzia, especially if you want to take your time and enjoy every corner of the complex. If you’re short on time, you can spend just an hour at the caves which will be enough time to take a one-way walk through the main caves and churches before heading back to the parking lot.
If you’ve hired your own driver or taxi, there are also a couple of other sights in the area worth seeing. Just before Vardzia is Tmogvi Castle, a hilltop fortress dating back to the 9th century. Back at the road junction between the main road to Akhaltsikhe and the side road to Vardzia, you’ll find Khertvisi Fortress, an impressive structure built between the 10th and 14th centuries. This would turn it into a full day tour from Akhaltsikhe by private transport.
How to Get to Vardzia
Many people join an organised tour from Tbilisi which is often a day trip to Vardzia. There are many tour agencies that offer these day trips and in high season, they have daily departures. They cost from around 120 lari (AU$60) per person depending on how many people join and generally, take 12 hours return trip with a stop in Borjomi and other sights on the way.
However, it’s also possible to get to Vardzia independently, either on your own day trip or as an overnight or weekend-style trip from Tbilisi. Vardzia is not very well serviced by marshrutkas or public minivans from major cities, as it really is just a tiny settlement with very few inhabitants.
The best way to reach Vardzia by marshrutka is by transferring in Akhaltsikhe, the closest major transport hub and only 1.5 hours from Vardzia. Here’s how you can plan your overnight or day trip to Vardzia using marshrutka.
From Tbilisi
Marshrutkas or minivans leave Tbilisi’s Didube station whenever they’re full or at least once an hour from 8am until 7pm. The journey from Tbilisi to Akhaltsikhe takes around four hours and costs 15 Lari (AU$8).
From Kutaisi
There are four marshrutka that travel between Kutaisi and Akhaltsikhe every day. There are around three departures in the morning and one in the early afternoon, but you’d have to double check the exact times. The journey takes around three to four hours and costs 12 Lari (AU$6).
Alternatively, you can take a more frequent marshrutka between Kutaisi and Khashuri and then change to another marshrutka to Akhaltsikhe.
From Borjomi
There are regular marshrutka and buses travelling the one hour trip between Borjomi and Akhaltsikhe. You should be able to find a service every 30 minutes and it will cost around 5 Lari (AU$3).
From Borjomi, there are almost hourly services onwards to Tbilisi.
From Gyumri in Armenia
This might surprise you, but there was a daily marshrutka from Gyumri in Armenia across the border to Akhaltsikhe in Georgia. The minivan left at 10am and cost 4000 AMD (AU$13). The journey took me four hours and the border crossing was a breeze for nationalities who don’t need a visa.
As of 2025, I believe this service no longer exists. You can take a taxi or shared taxi instead, but this will cost about 8,000 AMD (AU$30) per seat depending on your bargaining skills.
From Akhaltsikhe
Once you’ve found yourself in Akhaltsikhe, there are four daily departures between Akhaltsikhe and Vardzia. The marshrutkas leave at 10.30am, 12.30pm, 3pm and 4pm, although this changes occasionally outside of the main travel season, depending on demand.
The journey takes 1.5 hours and costs 8 Lari (AU$4). You have to buy a ticket from a counter inside the main building and the marshrutkas just park up outside.
Another option is to take a taxi from Akhaltsikhe to Vardzia, if you miss the marshrutka. This should cost around 70-80 GEL round-trip including waiting time while you visit the caves. Taxis will be waiting at the station.
From Vardzia back to Akhaltsikhe, there are departures at 9am, 1pm and 3pm. Bolt doesn’t work in this part of Georgia and taxis won’t be hanging around, so try to check the times for the return marshrutkas before entering the caves to know how much time you have.
How to Travel from Tbilisi to Vardzia and Back in a Day by Public Transport
If you want to complete your own day trip to Vardzia from Tbilisi, you’ll be in for a long one and you’ll also need the marshrutkas to leave on time. But, you can make it work.
To do this, you’ll have to take the earliest marshrutka from Tbilisi to Akhaltsikhe, which start from 8am. This should get you to Akhaltsikhe in time for the 12.30pm marshrutka to Vardzia. You’ll arrive in Vardzia at 2pm and you’ll only have 1 hour there to see the complex.
Then, you’ll need to make sure that you take the last marshrutka from Vardzia back to Akhaltsikhe at 3pm. From Akhaltsikhe, you’ll be able to get one of the late afternoon marshrutkas back to Tbilisi. You’ll be back in Tbilisi at around 9pm.
Read next: 11 Free Things to Do in Tbilisi
Vardzia Day Trip from Tbilisi by Group Tour
The easiest way to really enjoy a day trip to Vardzia is to join a group tour. This way you won’t have to navigate the public transport and minibuses and you’ll have more time to walk around the caves. Most of these day tours leave daily in summer, and are relatively affordable. Check out these options:
Where to Stay in Vardzia
There are a few guesthouses in Vardzia to stay if you prefer the quiet nature of the village. This also means you can see the cave complex before or after the day-trippers have left.
Vardzia Glamping | If you want to splurge on a special experience this glamping property is located right at the base of the caves. The geometric domes offer private rooms with a bathroom, and a private terrace to sit back and enjoy the view. They also offer timber A-frame villas. Check prices here.
Taoskari Hotel | This is one of the closest hotels to the Vardzia cave complex and has an incredible view. They have a nice garden and outdoor swimming pool for the summer, but it’s best feature is the balcony views of the caves. It’s quite budget friendly. Check prices here.
Akhaltsikhe
The small town of Akhaltsikhe may not be the most exciting place to spend your time, but it’s close proximity to Vardzia as well as being home to the beautiful Rabati Castle makes it worthwhile. It’s the perfect town to use as an overnight stop between Tbilisi and Vardzia and it has all the amenities and tourist infrastructure you’ll need.
There’s a major supermarket across from the marshrutka station. You’ll also find some high-quality Georgian restaurants around the guesthouses at the bottom of the Rabati Castle. I ate at Kessane Restaurant a couple of times and can highly recommend.
Where to Stay in Akhaltsikhe
Considering it’s a small town, there are actually plenty of good accommodation options in Akhaltsikhe. I loved the place I stayed and I think it was one of the better value places from my time in Georgia.
Mimino Guesthouse | A basic but comfortable guesthouse, they offer private rooms with bathrooms from 26 Lari (AU$14) per night. A close walk from the station and the castle, it’s perfect for budget travellers. Check availability here.
Light House Old City | A family guesthouse that gets rave reviews, this place a range of private rooms, along with an onsite restaurant. The hosts are fantastic and can help you plan your stay. Prices start from 65 GEL per night. Check availability here.
What to Do in Akhaltsikhe
The Rabati Castle steals the show in Akhaltsikhe and is the town’s main attraction. This medieval fortress and worshipping complex was originally built in the 9th century. It underwent an extensive reconstruction effort a decade ago and certainly appears far less ancient now. Still, the gardens inside are beautifully designed and the viewpoints from the main tower and ramparts offer sweeping vistas.
The entrance ticket costs 20 Lari (AU$11) and is certainly worth a couple of hours of your time if you’re staying overnight or have some spare time in Akhaltsikhe.
If you still have more time, you can take a taxi to Sapara Monastery, just 10km from Akhaltsikhe town. It’s a lovely complex on top of a hill covered in dense forest. A taxi will charge around 35 Lari (AU$18.50) round trip.
Travelling around Georgia and the Caucasus?
- Tbilisi: 11 Free Things to Do in Tbilisi
- Kazbegi: A Guide to Hiking in Kazbegi
- Mestia: A Complete Guide to the Mestia to Ushguli Trek
- Georgia Tips: The Ultimate Travel Guide to Georgia
- Caucasus: 12 Best Places to Visit in the Caucasus
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