Baw Baw Overnight Hike

Baw Baw National Park is a much less visited alpine region in the summer season. While most hikers head up to Hotham and Falls Creek, Baw Baw tends to be forgotten. Yet, it has a beautiful overnight hike from Baw Baw to Mushroom Rocks, which is perfect for beginners, solo hikers, or those looking for their first overnight hike in the alpine region.

I finally headed up to Baw Baw in February and decided to explore the Baw Baw Plateau on this one way overnight hike along the Australian Alps Walking Track (AAWT). I began at Baw Baw Village and headed out to Whitelaw Hut Ruins, before returning to camp near Mount Saint Phillack. The following day, I continued on the AAWT across to Mount Erica and down to Mushroom Rocks, where I was picked up.

It’s a great introduction to the alpine vegetation of the High Country, with some of the most beautiful snow gum forests I’ve ever seen. If you’re looking for a nice, not-too-difficult overnight hike, keep reading for more information on this Baw Baw to Mushroom Rocks hike.

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Overview of Baw Baw to Mushroom Rocks Overnight Hike

  • Distance: 30km
  • Time: 2 days
  • Total ascent: 1088m
  • Total descent: 1522m
  • Difficulty: Moderate
  • Start: Baw Baw Village
  • End: Mushroom Rocks/Mount Erica Carpark
  • Fees: No fees, it’s free to camp on the Baw Baw Plateau
  • Respect: Baw Baw is on the traditional land of the Gunaikurnai People
  • Nearest towns: Baw Baw Village or Erica and Rawson
Baw Baw overnight hike pin

When to Hike at Baw Baw National Park

The summer season or green season is the best time of year to do this hike. This season runs roughly from October until April, which is similar to other alpine regions in Victoria. Over these months, the trails are mostly cleared of snow and the weather is warmer. But Baw Baw sees far less snow than other places like Hotham and Falls Creek, so you could technically complete this hike later into winter as well.

Weather can change rapidly and without warning in the alpine region though, so you must be prepared for all conditions. Pack accordingly, the alpine requires you to think about four seasons, even in summer. Some of my packing recommendations are below.

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How to Get to Baw Baw Village

Melbourne to Baw Baw Village: 178 km or 2 hours 45 minute drive

It’s a decent, windy drive up to Baw Baw Village from Melbourne. Head out on the Princes Highway towards Drouin and then head north to Neerim. Turn right onto the Mount Baw Baw Tourist Road and drive through Noojee and up to Mount Baw Baw.

There is a carpark in the middle of the village where you can park a vehicle overnight. The visitor information centre has maps and helpful staff, if you want to let them know of your plans.

Stay in Baw Baw Village the night before the hike: Tanjil Creek Ski Lodge

Baw Baw Plateau
Baw Baw Plateau

Detailed Trail Notes for Baw Baw to Mushroom Rocks Hike

For a detailed look at my overnight hike, I’m going to break down the two days of hiking from Baw Baw to Mushroom Rocks.

Day 1: Baw Baw Village to Mt Saint Phillack Saddle with Side Trip to Whitelaw Hut Ruins

  • Distance: 15 km
  • Time: 5.5 hours
  • Ascent: 700m
  • Descent: 680m

I left Baw Baw Village after spending a night in a ski lodge and walked up the slopes towards Mt Baw Baw. Taking the summit trail, I passed the summit of Baw Baw and continued on the Tanjil Link Trail that headed out to the edge of the resort boundary and the beginning of Baw Baw National Park.

Signpost entering Baw Baw National Park
Signpost entering Baw Baw National Park

The trail then crossed over the boggy plateau and climbed up to the intersection of the Australian Alps Walking Track (AAWT). From here, Mt Whitelaw is to the left and Mt Saint Phillack and Mt St Gwinear are to the right. I turned left for my out and back side trip to the Whitelaw Hut Ruins.

The first couple of km’s to the hut ruins were on a nice single track through the snow gums, which had been recently brushcut and cleared. However, the last couple of k’s were much more overgrown and scrubby, but I could still make out the footpad. Gaiters were really helpful here, as the scrub was thick and scratchy, plus snakes are common on the plateau (although I didn’t see any for the first day).

Whitelaw Hut Ruins
Whitelaw Hut Ruins

After over 9km I made it to Whitelaw Hut Ruins. I was happy to have a break in the camping area, although the sun was warming up and the march flies were swarming. I gathered some water just down in the stream to make myself a cup of tea while I ate my lunch.

After a decent break, I headed back on the same trail to the junction. This time I continued straight ahead to pick a campsite for the night. I wasn’t sure exactly where I wanted to camp, so I was going to have a bit of a poke around.

Spotting the trail markers through the thick scrub
Spotting the trail markers through the thick scrub

Just 100m from the junction, Saint Phillack Saddle looked like a pretty nice spot, underneath the snow gums with views back to Baw Baw Village. I dropped my pack there, and then decided to just walk a bit further up to Mt St Phillack summit. There were more camping spots there, but not as nice as the saddle, so I headed back to set up camp for the evening.

A thick fog settled around the plateau just before sunset and I figured I wouldn’t get to see any nice colours in the sky. But, as I was sitting in my tent after the sun had set, the sky suddenly cleared and was lit up by brilliant orange and pink streaks. Incredible.

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Day 2: Mt Saint Phillack Saddle to Mushroom Rocks

  • Distance: 15.2 km
  • Time: 5 hours
  • Ascent: 388m
  • Descent: 842m

The next morning I took it pretty easy and didn’t leave camp until 9am. It was a warmish morning with a bit of wind around, so it made for nice walking weather. I continued on the AAWT, past Mt Saint Phillack and towards Mt Saint Gwinear, both the two highest peaks on the plateau.

I came to the Rock Shelter, a unique feature surrounded by beautiful snow gums. There are some camping spots around the boulders, but I personally liked my camp at Phillack Saddle a bit better. I took the short side trip here to the summit, which crossed an alpine marshland on a well-defined trail.

The summit has a bit of a view out through the trees, but nothing outstanding. Still, it’s the best view I had from any of the peaks on the plateau. I turned around and headed back to the AAWT and then continued onto Talbot Hut Ruins and Mount Erica.

The single track was in relatively good condition as it meandered up and down the plateau through the snow gums. It was pretty easy walking for the most part, heading mostly down for a while and then back up towards Talbot Peak.

Talbot Hut Ruins
Talbot Hut Ruins

The Talbot Hut Ruins is a nice spot hidden amongst the trees just off the trail. This is clearly used as a camping area as well, but it’s not too far from Mushroom Rocks. I had a brief lunch stop here before continuing. The final stretch of trail in the alpine vegetation headed up to Mount Erica, and then it steeply began to drop down to the lush forest of the lower slopes.

Mushroom Rocks
Mushroom Rocks

I then finally came to Mushroom Rocks. This cluster of boulders is surrounded by ferns and thin trees, an incredibly unique feature of Baw Baw National Park. I explored the rocks for a bit, finding what I think was the Mushroom Rock and passing the incredible overhanging rock cave.

The trail was quite skinny and a little overgrown as it continued passed some camping spots and then descended for the final 2km to the Mount Erica carpark. The vegetation changed rather quickly, and by the end I was walking through lush ferns and towering mountain ash trees.

Walking to Mount Erica car park
Walking to Mount Erica car park

Just a few hundred metres before the carpark, I spotted a healthy tiger snake just under the ferns in front of me. Surprisingly, my first snake sighting of the whole overnight hike. It slithered away and I continued to the car park, just as a thick fog rolled in seemingly out of nowhere.

My mum picked me up in the car and we drove back to Erica, where we stayed for the night before heading back to Healesville the next day.

Mushroom Rocks trail
Walking to the Mount Erica Carpark

Prefer Day Hikes? Break This Hike Into Separate Day Hikes Instead

This overnight hike can easily be broken down into three separate day hikes that you could complete instead, covering most of the same ground. Here are my day hike suggestions, if you prefer not to carry heavy camping gear:

  • Whitelaw Hut Ruins: A 16km return hike from Baw Baw Village
  • Three Peaks Hike: A 15.5km return hike from Baw Baw Village
  • Mushroom Rocks: A 4km return hike to Mushroom Rocks or even continue to Mt Erica and return from Mount Erica Carpark/Mushroom Rocks Carpark

Read more: 10 Best Day Hikes in the Victorian High Country

Walking through the snow gums
Walking through the snow gums

Camping in Baw Baw National Park

The Baw Baw Plateau has plenty of camping options for overnight hikes. All of these camping spots are for wild camping, which means you do NOT get any facilities. There are no toilets or water tanks or shelters, they are just flat, shady areas where you can easily pitch a tent. It’s free to camp in Baw Baw National Park and no bookings are required

The main camping spots are as follows:

  • Whitelaw Hut Ruins: Room for 2-3 tents, a semi-reliable water source nearby
  • Saint Phillack Saddle: Room for several tents, nice views, no water
  • Mount Saint Phillack: Plenty of room for groups, no water
  • Rock Shelter: Several tent spots amongst the trees, reliable water source nearby
  • Talbot Hut Ruins: Room for quite a few tents around the hut ruins, reliable water source nearby
  • Mushroom Rocks: Lots of camping spots tucked amongst the rocks, no water

Remember to leave no trace! How to Leave No Trace and Be Respectful in the Outdoors

Camping on Baw Baw Plateau
Camping on Baw Baw Plateau

Water Sources on this Hike

Water sources are a little limited on this overnight hike, but there’s enough to get you through. At Whitelaw Hut Ruins, you’ll find a small stream just down in the valley about 100m from the old chimney. There’s a faint trail but a little overgrown.

There’s no water between Whitelaw Hut and Mount Saint Gwinear, so ensure you have enough if you plan on camping at Mount Saint Phillack like me. There is a stream located between the Rock Shelter and Mount Saint Gwinear, which can be easily accessed just off the trail.

You’ll also find a reliable stream running at Talbot Hut Ruins near Mount Erica almost right on the trail. I’d recommend filtering all water you pick up on the plateau, due to potential contamination from animals and other bacteria.

I use a Sawyer Squeeze for water filtration in the alpine region.

Navigation and Safety

Navigation is pretty straight forward on this hike. Major intersections are signposted, and you’ll spot the AAWT (Australian Alps Walking Track) trail markers pinned to trees relatively frequently along the way.

The footpad is also pretty obvious for the most part, but there are some sections (particularly out to Whitelaw Hut) which are a little overgrown and bushy. I recommend having a GPS app like maps.me on your phone or carrying a GPS device for navigation, if you’re a little unsure. But experienced hikers shouldn’t have a problem navigating on this hike.

Serious dangers mainly come in the form of injury or snakes. Make sure that you carry a first aid kit, including a snake bite bandage, in case of emergency.

AAWT trail markers
AAWT trail markers

Overnight Hiking Essentials to Pack

Sleeping bag | You’ll want a good sleeping bag for the High Country, one that will keep you warm no matter the temperature and be lightweight enough to pack easily in your backpack. Sea to Summit is one of the best brands on the market and you can’t go wrong with their Spark III bag.

Backpack | A 65L pack is usually a good option for multi-day hikes, especially in the Alpine region when you’re going to be carrying warm gear.

Hiking boots | I’m a bit old fashioned when it comes to my footwear and I can’t hike without my hi-cut boots. I’ve been wearing Keen Targhee boots for over a year now and I’m super happy with how they go on all adventures.

PLB | Any hiker, especially a solo hiker, should carry a Personal Location Beacon. For the cost, these small devices can save your life anywhere, anytime. If you don’t want to buy one, you can hire one from any Macpac store, find out more here

Power bank | I rely on my phone (maybe too much) while I’m hiking. From Maps.Me to recording videos to listening to music, I can recommend the BioLite power bank which will easily last days off the grid.

Tent | Try to keep your tent below 2kg as this can quickly become your heaviest piece of gear. I currently have the Big Agnes Copperspur 2-person tent, and it’s been my go-to for all my alpine hiking adventures.

Down jacket | You should be prepared for any weather on alpine adventures, so a down jacket is a must to ensure you keep warm. Mountain Designs Ascend range is lightweight, warm and water repellent, so it’s perfect for the High Country.

More Overnight Hikes in Victoria to Add to Your List

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